Ahah, you got me lol. Why do you bother coating and waterproofing it if it’s still to put it in a condom ? 
By the way, I got the overvoltage protection board. It’s soooo tiny I thought they forgot to put it in my order lol. It’s actually 12,5 x 10 mm. Will have no problem to fit in one corner of the remote.
Still waiting the conformal coating…
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I did everything… 
Is it okay, not to come to the Sub menu, when the remote is not connected to the receiver?
Or did I anything wrong?
I received mine v1 version yesterday and just opened it.
I think it looks quite good. Do you think it is enough to just add some grease and corrosionx or would you recommend something more to make it fully waterproof?
I can see that they have extended the antenna in the V2 version so it goes further out for better connection.
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Hi.
It does look better then the previous ones.
However, the water will leak in around the wires and the switch button.
I recommend conformal coating the area where the wires come out of the potting, and the part of the potting where you can see the white plugs.
This is the first time I’ve seen the potting poured where the screen goes. I’d inspect this very well. Looks like water can go down the side of the screen. Maybe seal this up better.
The trigger springs rust quickly in salt water. corrosionX should help with that.
Do the foam mod if you want it to float.
As far as the switch button. I suggest carefully using conformal coating around the outer edge of the switch. Water will leak in the 4 little posts that hold the button housing. Be careful not to get conformal coating in the button part. Once it dries, use silicone dielectric grease to encapsulate the switch button.
Thx for posting the pictures.
Please update how the remote is holding up with use.
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Too it was very well delivered and easy to pay nothing wrong with that company so far
The reason so many of us complain is because the remote only last a couple months in salt water if not modified.
And strict program of washing, periodic corrosionX treatments, and special charging must be adhered to.
For example, the first time you forget it on charge, or charge it to fully charged the battery is permanently damaged. Only charge to 4.10v! And charge as @virus described with charger on top of remote so it doesn’t overheat.
Looking forward to a truly waterproof remote. It needs to be sealed! 
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Hi guys.
So, my LCD screen failed the other day. I thought the remote was dead, but after plugging everything in I pulled the trigger and the motor spun up. So, it’s just the screen. I went for the ride and the remote worked well. Just no screen. It came on a few times while out riding, but then went back off.
The waterproofing I did proves to have not been enough for the screen. I have purchased a second remote and tweaked my procedure for waterproofing this one.
I started by removing the screen and spraying it with about 5 coats of Conformal coating, letting it dry between coats. To protect the screen I rubbed silicone grease on the screen. Then I sprayed the back and sides.
Once dry I then put the remote in a vacuum chamber filled with corrosionX and pulled -10 inHG of vacuum and let it sit for 20 minutes. It bubbled all the air out of the voids for the first 5 minutes or so then the bubbling stopped. So, I should have got all the air out and replaced it with corrosionX. This is an important step because as we all know the water eventually finds its way into the plugs, wires, circuit board, battery, and corrodes it all out. With the voids already filled with corrosionX, the water will not be able to penetrate. Do this at your own risk! The risk here is that if you pull too much of a vacuum, or too fast the Lipo battery back can swell up. This could damage the battery, or crack the potting material loose. I experimented with some old Lipo packs first and determined that they don’t start to puff up untill over -10 inHG of vacuum, so I suggest this as the vacuum limit.
Next I toweled it off and cut foam to fit for flotation.
Then I used silicone grease to displace any air / water. I filled the void that the screen mounts in making sure there were no air pockets, especially between the LCD and the screen cover. Also pay extra attention to the button. I filled the areas that are potted with as much silicone grease as would fit.
The remote looks good closed up. It floats well! I will update this thread if it fails in the future.
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Nice ! Quick question : Why not replacing the screen like on this thread ?
Of course it would mean only the screen is damaged and not the electronics.
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I will look into doing that. But, yea. That will only work if it’s actually the screen and not the little circuit board.
I’ll let you guys know.
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I was going to just pour slow curing epoxy over everything in my v2 remote, or is that a bad idea with it seeping into the display screen?.
That’s what @virus does. The only downside is everything is practically impossible to repair, or take apart once you do that. I like my method because it’s still easy to remove the screen if needed.
Thanks for all you ideas. Unfortuantly I did not take your advise. 2 mins in to my first ride(fresh water) with this new V2 remote. The display filled with water. There was absolutely nothing keeping the water out.
Everything seems to still work.
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Hi.
At least your remote is still working! Yep. Time to do the waterproofing modifications!
I have done the vacuum treatment in corrosionX now on 4 remotes. All are still working good in saltwater use. Make sure to encapsulate everything in silicone grease!
Sorry but in my opinion he should send back his Remote and should get his money back!!! Maytech can’t sell waterproof things that are totally not waterproof.
Those Remote is a holy shit!!!
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I totally agree!
As we have all found out by now… Maytech does not stand behind their product. There is no warranty. If you contact them they just offer to give you $20 off a new remote.
Do not buy a Maytech remote unless you plan to do these modifications. It won’t last more then a few uses without a bunch of special care.
I look forward to a better remote. Unfortunately, for now we are stuck with this.
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Didnt nobody bought the remote via paypal?
Normaly you get back your money…
@pacificmeister: taking into account that 1- the remote is a key component, 2 - Maytech is the only seller 3-they don’t care about after-sales service…
would it possible to stick this wise piece of advice at the top of the threads so that new (and older) comers are warned ? In time, perhaps will we see some semblance of compassion for abused customers…
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On the remote there is a little clear window that sits on top of the screen. A small amount of water gets between the window and the screen it looks awful. Like in my photo above. In my case I wiped up the water and then filled the space with clear silicone. Then I sprayed everything with CorrisonX. Then I added foam to make it float.
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@SoEFoil, there are many varying experiences here with this remote and I sure hope anyone who puts this kind of money down for a remote at least reads the complete thread to make up their own opinion and judge the risk/value for themselves. It’s important to put all the info out so that everyone knows what issues they might face. I myself purchased 3 of these Maytech v2 remotes and they worked (and still work) without waterproofing mods. Only annoying issue was that I had to downgrade my VESC SW to make them work. I since passed them on to my friend @RIDEHYDROFOILS and hope they continue to work for him too, fingers crossed 
. Maybe the reason they worked for me is that I never got rid of my habit to hold my hand up high in the air during and after a crash and try not to dunk it into the water.
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