Oh great! I would just do that then. What seems to be the crusing speed for a setup like this and range?
On another note, is the velcro the way to lock the box to the board?
Im in Napili, would love to meetup with you and chat efoils! Im looking to do my first build and looking for guidance
- Weston
808-214-4743
Hey mate, I really like the simplicity of your build. I’m totally new to this thing, have been reading a lot here and I’m keen to pull the trigger now and try to build one myself.
How’s your build working? Have you done any improvement?
Cheers,
OC
Hi Foilkook,
the build with the box on top the turqoise board has been going strong. I switched to the Flite prop at some point (not sure if I documented that above).
One thing I would do differently is to cover the electronics (receiver, bluetooth module and ESC) in conformal coating or pot it. I had a few of the receiver and bluetooth modules stop working because there was corrosion on the components.
The build with the pink Fliteboard is not working anymore. At some point a bit of water sifted through the mast into the ESC and it stopped working. I’m planning to sell that board because I prefer lighter boards. If anyone is interested, send me a message.
The Pelican case setup has been working great for a while. I repurposed it as a backpack foil assist setup with a spiral cable. Last week I ran into problems with it as the glued on heatsink got loose. Turns out the material of the Pelican case is polypropylene, which is hard to glue things to (I used 5200 marine adhesive to attach the heat sink). To fix it properly, I need to figure out a way to mechanically attach the heatsink (probably with bolts).
You can try primer 3M 94
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Thanks mate. The turqoise board build is the one I like the most as I’m planning to use similar box with two 6s2p or 6s3p batteries in series.
I’m still in doubt with the VESC. 75100 or 75200. 75100 seems to be working well for you?
Using a coating means you can’t program the VESC anymore or the coating can be removed?
One more question if I may. when you cut a hole for the heatsink, how did you seal to make sure no water gets into the box?
Many thanks.
OC
If you get one with Bluetooth built in this is less of an issue. Still probably good to have a potting that can be removed if necessary
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75100 has generally been working fine. The ones that stopped working in the past were due to some water drops getting into the box. I might try 75200 for my next build to see how it compares.
Regarding coating: I would make sure that the USB port and all other ports are still accessible. Programming can be done via Bluetooth when using the Bluetooth module.
Regarding the hole for the heatsink: I’ve glued the heatsink onto the plastic box using 3M 5200 Marine adhesive. It’s been working well on my Polycarbonate box (the one on the turquoise board) for a long time now.
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Get the 84100, it can handle more Current, has Current sensing on the phase side an Bluetooth build in. Its inbetween the 75100 and 75200
I couldn’t find any 84100, could you post a link?
Here you go
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006515708671.html
That was @Bzhwindtalker recommendation for 75€ although I personally accepted the additional cost for the Harry Drive M Neo VESC, which I believe is perfect for our application and reasonably priced at €150 for the quality it offers. However, it is only available in Germany.