Hi @JonathanC @t-dub-maui, could you please share the motor clamp design and other 3d printed parts needed for the build? soon starting my build and this thread has been huge help! thank you in advance!
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Hi patfoil, send me a message with your email and I’ll send you what I have.
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Hi @t-dub-maui, I picked up a flightboard last week and I’m planning to do one of these adapter plate e-foil builds. There are a couple builds like this kicking around the forum and a few versions of the adapter plate. Your version is simple (and cheaper!) since it’s just a flat piece of cut aluminum. I am curious about how you attached the Axis mast plate onto the adapter plate. Looking at your photos above, it seems you put two thru holes with bolts on the front. Then on the back it seems like two screws on each side. Are those thru holes as well or are they blind and tapped? For the thru holes did you take any steps to try and water proof them?
Here are some notes about my adapter plate and lessons learned:
- The plate I got was 9.5mm thick to have depth to cut some threads into it. For my next version I would skip the plans for cutting threads in favor of using through-bolts and use a thinner plate instead. A thinner plate would save some weight and be flush with the bottom board surface.
- The Axis baseplate has two holes in the center to attach the mast. I would also add these countersunk holes to the adapter plate and have the bolts go through both the adapter plate and Axis base plate into the mast. This should make the whole setup much more solid since these two bolts hold all 3 parts together. I think @3rd_ave_Lien went with that approach
- I would put in four additional through-bolts around the perimeter to further bolt the aluminum plate and Axis baseplate together
- I flooded the bottom of the plastic box (that sits on top of the aluminum plate) with silicone waterproof everything (phase wire holes and through bolt holes)
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Interesting, seems like you would really want to lock it down if you did it again. Have you been feeling some play or lack of stiffness that you think is from attaching the 2 plates?
Actually, I didn’t notice any play at all with the current setup. It seems rock solid.
I’m just thinking that using the two center bolts in addition would be relatively easy to do and make it absolutely bomb proof.
Yo T-Dub. What is the volume on that green board? I finally did a test run with my 55liter and the 65111 motor and 12s3p battery and was not able to get enough speed for foil lift. Wondering what I may be doing wrong in my setup.
Let me know what you think
Todd
Hey Todd, the volume of the green board is around 75-80ish liters.
55 liter seems too small with the 65111. I would try a bigger board and make sure the board is flat when getting up to speed. If nose angle is up too high it will kill the speed.
What foil wing size are you using?
yea - I am thinking of doing what everyone else has done and waterproof a 6384 outrunner. Also the propellor king makes a nice folding prop.
I have Naish foils; 1040 front 240 stab and a 1240 front (75 al and 85 carbon masts)
I have a 4’6 80L Naish Ultra compact wing board. You think I should set it up on that? I suppose I could just SUP foil rather than try to prone.
Thanks
TK
I rode a similar setup yesterday: 6384 with propeller king folding prop, 54L board, 1100cm front wing and 10s batteries. The motor had plenty of power to accelerate. The issue was that it was tricky to get started since the box would often be underwater and losing reception to the remote.
I think going forward I will use a bigger board.
@tkramer I recommend to go with the 80L board for now and get that working. Can always go down to lower volume after confirming it works on 80L.
The trick with holding the remote behind (maybe also under water) - it doesn’t work?
What remote do you use?
What weight are you? I am 93kg and have doubts to build using 10s or 12s.
What’s the trick for the remote?
I’m using a Maytech V2.
My weight is around 80kg
I saw it in some YouTube video, can’t find right now.
You should hold your hand with the remote behind and even in the water , the point is as much close to the box, till the box gets out of the water.
Come back please and report if it works for you. I count on this trick as I intend to use 60L board while my weight is 93kg.
Have yet to find where to order custom board which has place for a box behind and will plane efficiently on start up.
Which board do you use and where do you place the box?
Hi @t-dub-maui, I just starting on my build. I would be awesome if you could please share the motor clamp design and other 3d printed parts needed for the build? Thankyou in advance. Steve (szadro@zads.co)
Planning on doing a build like this. What kind of range are you getting with the single 10s2p? Also do you have recommendations where to get a simple cheap board?
I think with a single 10s2p battery I get around 17 minutes of riding time (around 5km).
These days I’m usually using 10s4p for more range.
Regarding a cheap board, you could look for a used wing foil board. Maybe something around 70-80 liters.
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Thanks for the reply. I ordered some parts today. As far as the box, is the pelican box with external heatsink still the way to go? Using the 65121 motor and FLIPSKY 75100 Pro with Aluminum PCB . Also, do you happen to have the motor mount for the axis mast?
Yes, the pelican box with heat sink has been working well. Another option is the box with the clear lid, it’s personal preference and depends on the space you need.
I should have the 3d print file for the axis motor mount somewhere. It was designed by @JonathanC - he might have a newer version at this point, might be worth asking him for the latest and greatest.
I will be starting with a single 10s2p and later on adding another one like you. I only plan to e-foil. I think the pelican might be okay, how do you check the battery remaining? On the controller?
If you’re planning to get your battery from mboards like I did, it might be better to ask them to build you a single 10s4p battery. Then you don’t have to bother always making sure that the voltage of your two 10s2p batteries are equal and you save some space inside the pelican case (don’t need a Y splitter etc)
The battery voltage is visible on the controller.