Yes, I can confirm these dimensions @Kian
Does anyone know where to get a waterproof case with similar dimensions (max 80mm high)? I’m thinking about building a longer range battery and would need a case for that. I know that @MBard built his own case, but I was hoping that there is something available to buy to make it a bit easier.
I’m searching many hours for a battery case. Maybe you can look at a case from Rittal. There is a stainless steel case with the dimensions 300x300x80. That should fit perfect. The rittal number is BG 1584.010 . But the price is with 280Euro not really cheap. That’s the reason i build a case by myself.
Damn, some water got into the black plastic case. I’m pretty sure it’s through the motor wires that come in from the bottom of the plate. I put some 3M 5200 adhesive around where the cables come through, but it looks like that wasn’t enough.
Now I’m trying to figure out how to get it watertight. I was thinking to pour potting compound into the case to cover the whole bottom up to the height of the VESC enclosure (18 millimeters).
In addition, also pour potting compound into the mast upside down so it covers the area close to the base plate. Maybe even fill the mast with expanding foam so less water can get in there?
I would appreciate your thoughts on this plan.
Any recommendations for a potting compound?
Or do you think I could just use silicone sealant from the hardware store instead?
How much water? It could be condensation effect.
My suggestion would be to confirm the location of the leak first.
You could tape a garbage bag to the top surface of the opening, fill it with air via compressor or leaf blower (doesn’t require high air pressure) and spray soapy water on the outside bottom surface and look for bubbles.
From my experience 5200 is great adhesive (some people refer to it as devils glue😀) but not great as a sealant
Hi, I am just courious, how is your motor doing with the corrosionX after this time. Would you still do it?
hi there , would you mind to share the file to produce the board cutout? I also have bought a fliteboard with the same idea and now found your nice conversion. great work!
Yes, it still works fine. Only a little bit of rust. Not bad for a $60 motor.
Please message me your email address and I can send it to you. Original credit for creating the file goes to @MBard
I share all the files you need in a OneDrive-Folder. You can find it in the thread.
Diy Efoil with Fliteboard
Haven’t posted an update for a while, so here we go.
Both efoil builds are working pretty well at this point, we just finished another session earlier today:
I solved the issue mentioned above with water getting into the black plastic box via the adapter plate hole for the motor wires. The solution was to fill the bottom of the box with silicone sealant and also put silicone inside the mast on the side of the baseplate:
On the bolt-on build (turquoise board), I replaced the 6384 motor with a Flipsky 65121.
I’m using this motor clamp designed by @JonathanC (huge thanks!). Filled it with epoxy to make it more durable. The nose parts on each side can be removed and are held in place by magnets. This makes it possible to install everything without having to remove the phase wires from the mast.
Here are both motor setups side by side. 65161 in the front, 65121 in the back.
I also got a new prop. It’s the HyperDrive from Propellerking (@superlefax). Seems to work great and it’s pretty silent.
My next task on the to-do list is to build some bigger batteries.
How does the 65121 compare to the 65161?
It has less power but still totally fine for casual riding. The 65121 seems like a good alternative for lighter riders. I weigh around 80kg/175lbs, so a bit heavy for the small motor.
Useful comparison. Simple and direct. Thanks!
Hi @t-dub-maui!
I really like your build and want to do something similar since I alrady have a regular board and foil. I appreciate a lot for sharing your excel with all parts. It is very helpful!
Since I’m quite new in this, I might have some obvious questions:
In one of previous photos i saw you had a propeller with foldable blades. I am also thinking to have similar because I’d like to use my board for foil pumping. Was it 3d printed?
On more recent photos I see you have a regular propeller. Why you decided to use it instead if foldable one?
I have a very primitive 3d printer and the details it can print are quite fragile and stuff like propeller will break immediately in use. What way would you recommend for me to get the printed parts? Are there reliable third party printing services which can print well?
Hi Maxim, welcome to the forum!
Here are the answers to your questions:
- In one of previous photos i saw you had a propeller with foldable blades. I am also thinking to have similar because I’d like to use my board for foil pumping. Was it 3d printed?
Yes, those were printed. They kept breaking though (my printer isn’t that good and I was using PLA+), so I stopped printing my own props.
- On more recent photos I see you have a regular propeller. Why you decided to use it instead if foldable one?
I was testing the foldable props for my Foil Assist setup. Now that I built dedicated eFoils, regular props seem more suitable for the task.
- I have a very primitive 3d printer and the details it can print are quite fragile and stuff like propeller will break immediately in use. What way would you recommend for me to get the printed parts? Are there reliable third party printing services which can print well?
I haven’t done it myself yet, but I think using a third party print service is a good idea since they can print with better materials. Maybe someone else here has a recommendation. I believe @JonathanC mentioned that he got some props printed.
Thanks for your answers @t-dub-maui. I have a bit more to ask:
You mentioned you use BMS only for charging. As per my understanding if you don’t use BMS for discharging the battery can quickly degradate when discharging it below limit. How do you protect it from excessive discharging?
Is ESC 75100 good enough for you? I’m just thinking if I should consider 75200?
You mentioned that you are able to continuously ride for about 30 minutes with your’s current setup while you wold like to increase power of the battery. I m also thinking of keeping a good balance between weight and power and maybe to have different battareys which you just replace after 30 minutes could be an option. What are yours thoughts on that? Or you want to increase power for higher speed dynamics?
You also mentioned aluminium box for overheat protection. Did you test it? How would you compare it with external radiator?
In the VESC I can configure things like minimum voltage and maximum current that can be pulled from the batteries. I set it to shut off once voltage per cell reaches 3.0V
The 75100 has been working great for me so far. I’m using it in two efoils and one foil assist setup.
75200 is probably better, but I don’t know anything about it.
I’m good on the power side of things. The main reason for building a bigger battery is to be able to ride for longer without having to change the battery. Maybe 1 hour of ride time would be good.
I dropped the aluminum box idea because the box is quite heavy and the external heat sink attached to the plastic box works great.
Good point! I didn’t know VESC supports that.
Thanks!
I use the flipsky 75200 and the settings for minimum voltage where is limits power all work as described. I also passive cool mine to aluminum plate inside board even through the carbon laminate never gets more than 35 after an hour ride. I would go for the 75200 as starts jump amps over 100 but riding along 30ish.
