I have also bought a FR 7" prop for my 6384/10S efoil setup on a Gong Hipe 6’5, mainly to get more speed and efficiency than the 3D printed 2 blade I use (max 30km/h), which I will test in a few weeks now that winter is over, although not sure if it is too big for that motor and my weight at 100kg+. One thing that worries me is the knife sharp edges of this prop which will cause a nasty cut on any contact even not rotating. If it works on my setup, I will blunt this edge, and only use it in flat conditions. Since Maui is rarely flat, is this something you have considered as a risk?
Concerning the FR 7", have you any idea of the sweetspot speed range for this prop, in terms of efficiency? I know it is good for 50 km/h on 13/14S, so maybe not ideal for cruising speeds below 25 km/h?
I also have a somewhat domed board surface that doesn’t mate well with box. I have lots of strap inserts so attaching hold downs is not an issue.
Considering making a fibreglass platform to make things fit better. Curved on lower surface to fit board and bolted into footstrap inserts, shaped upper surface to fit box on snugly and either use 3M and/or straps to keep it in place. Removable if I want to use the board without the motor.
Update on eFoil build #1 (the one with the 6384 motor):
I replaced the previous motor mount with a new one designed by @JonathanC (thank you!!)
This motor mount is great because:
It has a cable channel on the inside. No more hydrodynamic drag with some of the cable being exposed. I had to modify my motor a little bit with a Dremel so the cables leave the motor towards the rear.
It uses less material to print
It’s attached to the mast with 2 screws and has been rock solid so far
Update on eFoil build #2 (the one with the 65161 motor):
I wanted to get a board with an internal compartment for the battery and electronics. Since my board building skills are non existent, I splurged on an empty fiberglass board from Fliteboard (link).
That board has a non-standard mast mount, so I had to put in an adapter plate to be able to attach the Axis base plate.
I want to give a shoutout and huge thank you to @MBard who did a Fliteboard build before me and sent me the CAD file for the plate and gave me a lot of good tips on how to get it done!
I got the adapter plate cut out of 6061 Aluminum from sendcutsend.com. It’s 9.5mm thick and cost around $55 shipped. Then I had to drill the holes and tap some threads.
The VESC is directly attached to the aluminum plate for passive cooling through the mast. This works great so far, temperature has not gone past 32C yet.
I’m using a waterproof plastic box (link) to protect the VESC in case water ever gets into the board compartment (so far it has stayed dry). There’s a cutout at the bottom of the box for the VESC and it’s glued to the aluminum plate with 3M 5200 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive.
As a temporary battery solution I’m currently using my existing 10s2p batteries in a Pelican case. Eventually I want to get a proper long range battery.
A really sleek project ! Would you have a pict of the empty board part which receives the custom alu mast plate ?
I just want to see how it is ensuring waterproofness between board and mast plate…
Looking forward to seeing sbdy doing the same with a Waydoo board ESC hole …
As far as I know, the battery should not be more than 305mm wide, 390mm long and 80mm high, so that the lid still closes. The board weighs approx. 11kg
