I have a pretty powerful jetboard with 2 jets and powered by a 12s12p.
No way that I can pull a wakeboarder out of the water with it.
I agree with Kian, the amount of power needed for this is a bit above what you can realistically expect. I regularly tow people behind a 6m tender and you can feel it bog down with the load. I would rather go with an outboard motor if this is your main objective.
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I noticed a small hole in the insulation of one of my motor wires a few inches away from the back of the motor. Any suggestions on how to repair it? Will silicone adhesive stick to silicone insulation? I have heat shrink with adhesive coating inside but the adhesive doesn’t stick perfectly to the insulation.
My motor is filled with corrosion X and I think it saturated though the full length of the wires. When I was unsoldering a connector some liquid boiled out of the insulation at the end of a 3 foot long motor wire. With that said, the hole which is only a few inches away from the motor has corrosion X slowly oozing out. Do I need to worry that water may have got into my motor through that same path. So for I have only used it in fresh water.
Unfortunately I think that yes, you do have to do something about that. I’d probably clean the spot well with IPA, and then slip a piece of adhesive heat shrink to the wire and shrink it on. The adhesive should be pretty good at keeping the water out.
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I don’t know if the hole in the insulation was there last time I used it (last fall). Do I need to open the motor and change the corrosion X? Is it ok if a couple drops of fresh water is mixed with a few ounces of corrosion X?
I’d change it, its easy enough and gives you the peace of mind.
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Marine silicone and then shrink-wrap over it. Do not put any corrosion X near the wire otherwise the silicone won’t bond. I tore some of my wires apart during a flight where my unit was in my baggage. Marine silicone bonds perfectly to silicone wire.
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The corrosion x is wicking through the wire from the inside of the motor so it’s too late to keep it away from the area I need to repair. I will clean it off the best I can with IPA. I just hope I can get it to stop oozing long enough to coat with silicone. I assume the silicone should be totally cured before applying the heat shrink.
Thanks for your advice guys!
Smooth on sil-poxy is what you want. Designed to bond silicone parts. It has a pot life of 5 minutes and fully cured in 12 minutes.
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I shrink-wrap while its still wet so that it pulls tight and also bonds to the shrink wrap. That way there’s no way anything is getting in.
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@Jezza
did you screw them in just to have something to grip to or did you tighten those screws so that they push the cap out?
Thanks
Just for something to grip.
I did it, thanks for the tip. I really hate damaging stuff when opening.
With 2 screws in place it was manageable just with hand force to twist and open.
Has anyone tried adding an additional single or double lipped seal onto the prop shaft of the 65161, to make it more waterproof similar to a FR motor?
Because of the tapered section leading to the prop shaft, I’m wondering whether an o-ring or simply gluing a 3d printed cover with sealant/adhesive would work better. On the FR it’s easier, they have a flat motor housing and can use an o-ring.
Sure you can print a top part , include a o ring , fill the cap with marine grease and bolt it on
Have you seen,
Freerchobby offers a 66160 now too
Good find, really good price too
If only they paid attention and used a threaded shaft instead of that awful shaft and prop…
They claim the shaft and cables are customizable after request. But you’re right, its annoying that they don’t offer the threaded shaft in the first place
But at least half the price of Mytech or Flipsky