NEW DIY Foil Drive Assist KILLER from Austria

What will you use for input to the step-up converter?

If your battery was split in 2x6s, you could use a Toolkitrc dual 6s charger:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804137187379.html
Price with power supply: 53usd or 73€ + shipping (to compare to 200+usd for an iCharger x12)

This is how @Etiennebzh charges, two simultaneous 6s packs but could be a single 12s pack with 2x(6+1) balance wire connectors

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I think I have that exact DC power boost converter (or at least looks exactly like that one and came from Amazon). I’ve only actually used it once though to charge a 10S pack, so I can’t offer much about how well it works over time. It did work nicely the one time I used it. of course you do need to use a multimeter to set the output voltage and current when you set it up. I also would not trust the “1500W” rating they claim.

I have two 8s10p batteries from my ewinch. They should have enough power. I will test the step up Converter and let you know how how much amps it can handle.

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Thank you! Can you share the STL for the motor mount handle? and the hardware you put in it?

motor mount is already here: NEW DIY Foil Drive Assist KILLER from Austria - #17 by heiguga
I tested different ESC hardware options.
Type A uses a Maytech Marine 160A
Type B a Flipsky VESC (FSESC6.9 100A).
I am not happy with both.
I would recommend a Flycolor x cross or a orignal Trampa VESC (MK6).
I am going to run a small “mass production” where I will use these…
If anyone want to join, just let me know…
Other hardware is “standard” (120KV 6384, Molicel 45B cells, Daly BMS, …).

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Where is your antenna located? Are there any connection problems during launch? Is there water above the board during the start?

Antenna is inline with the track mount. see pictures.
Connection quality is amazing. It needs just 1cm of the board out of the water.
I also created the 2nd generation with a power button. This reduces the spark issue significantly.



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Then reveal the secret of how to get one centimeter of the board above the water with its volume of 40 liters and the rider’s weight of 80 kilos.

I’m assuming it is similar to my internal foil drive set up. Lean back a little to get the nose up, give some throttle to get you on the plane when the nose is out the whole time.

If I understand correctly, the antenna is located closer to the stern.

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The whole board acts as the antennae so as long as a small part of it is out of the water, you get signal.

Just lean back. And I am 70kg :slight_smile: .

BTW, in the second generation I am using a Trampa VESC with express data logger.
I will try some optimizations and let you know.
My 1st generation with Flipsky Vesc is now stable too. Just never do updates to Flipsky Vescs…
And my pump skills have significant improved :slight_smile: .

Thanks. I paused work on my version of FD2 in anticipation of the new VX3 Pro remote with LoRa module, but now I see that it makes sense to continue with the regular VX3.

If you want to further improve your pumping, you should upgrade to a 70cm mast and replace the wing with something more suitable, such as the Axis PNG series. I myself started with Gong 1900 and now I find it simply terrible.

what switch are you using, have you tested it? I want to create one like yours but wasn’t sure about leaving the battery in, how I would turn it off, thanks

For my prototype B I am just switching the VESC. This avoids sparks when changing the battery. But not at the first plug in.
For my prototype A I am using a XTs90 as “loopback” to turn on/off. See pictures above.

I replaced the Maytech controller in one of the builds. It is like a operation on the heart…
I can highly recommend the Flycolor x cross