New french build

Hello everyone,

First of all I would like to thank all the website users for their advices and responsiveness. It has been one year since I discovered Efoiling and I am eager to finally build mine thanks to all of you!
The board I would like to build would be small enough to have fun after having mastered how to lift.
I am planning to go for a 1250X600X120mm board. Hope those dimensions will be enough to evolve gradually.
I have bought and glued 3 boards 1250X600X60mm.
Next step consists in shaping the block with a homemade hot wire and sanding paper.

I still have some questions for you guys:
-I am planning to buy the Gong box (https://www.gong-galaxy.com/en/product/gong-mount-track-box-reinforced-for-top-plate/) What are your thoughts about this product? I have seen some boards on this forum using it, seems correct.
-I bought two aluminium profile that I wanted to insert on the back of the board in order to stiffen it. I would fill them with wood or even expansive foam.
-As I read some topics, I noticed that a great majority used vacuum pump when applying fiberglass and carbon fiber. Is it mandatory? If yes, I was planning to buy this one:

https://www.amazon.fr/Olibelle-Climatisation-Electrique-Systèmes-Réfrigération/dp/B07L9SJMPF/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=pompe+a+vide&qid=1610880752&s=kitchen&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0R1pTOUxWOVI3RkYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MzEzNDgxRllGTTJDWkhEUThFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNDU2NTMyTkQzNVBSOEExNUgzJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Would it be ok according to you?

Hope to hear from you.

Wishing you a good Week-end.

That’s a really small board to start on. I’d go a bit larger, 1500-1600mm length minimum. You’ll have an easier time learning to come up on foil with this length.

You don’t really need to vacuum the board but it’ll make it a bit lighter and stronger. Go for it if you want to learn and if you have good patience. it’s harder than it looks - it’ll probably turn out like sh*t the first time(s), leaving you with scrapped board attempts.

I use the gong mount track box. Im happy with the results. You can see pictures of the build on my build page. https://efoil.builders/t/hts-first-build-in-austria/9648/17

Some news about the project here.
I ordered the Gong mount track box @wushbush. Should be shipped home this week :grinning:


@Larsb, unfortunately the foam blocks I have are this size: looks like I will have to learn quick :yum: The board will measure approximately 1250X600X120mm that corresponds to 90L. I checked on FliteBoard website and it fits right between the Pro model and the Standard:

I am defining the shape of the bard right now. I am using multiple paper sheets on one size of the board. I will just have to flip it the other side to make it symmetrical:

And @Larsb, I just managed to get a compressor from an old fridge! I will vacuum the board but will try first on boxes that will contain electronics.

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Just in case you want to go bigger, it is easy enough to „glue“ two foam pannels together with 1k foam, it can even be cut with a hot wire afterwards. Below a 125x60x12 cm pannel, extended to 140cm.

no the pro is 1.52m , with 1.25m your board will be super pro

no the easiest way to start and to learn , after very nice size to carry in a car , but that is about all

most of us glued some foam blocks to get the correct size, i think you should still go bigger.

I also tried refrigerator vacuum some time ago, it spit oil into the air. I’d avoid refrigerator compressors for vacuuming composites due to this (or add an oil filter at least)

Diy oil filter

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Hello guys,
I am quite busy those times, sorry for the late response.
@Alexandre, I was comparing the volume of my board to the volume of the FliteBoard PRO.
@sat_be, thanks for the info. It is true that it scares me a bit to add a chunk of foam like this. Still believe that it can break at any time :exploding_head: What glue did you use?
@Larsb, thanks for the info. I checked on the internet and some people like @Manu simply add a small oil filter or even add a simple block of foam at the output of the compressor.

To come back to the size topic, I am really undecided. I weight 70 kg, the board will weight approximately 20 kg. I think you are right. I will go bigger. Planning to buy a new foam board to add it.
I will keep you updated.

I was almost forgetting. I received my Gong Mount Box @wushbush. Looks good!

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I did not use glue, just 1 component construction foam from the hardware store. The advantage with foam is that you can cut it with a hot wire. Rigidity comes from the fiberglass or cabon shell, not from the foam core. The seam between the two pieces will be in front, where there is not much load anyways.

I know but just to let you know for the same volume the shorter board will need a lot more skills at the beginning , your choice
A low volume board : harder to rest on it … a longer board : easier for take off and bounce back from the water
I learned on a 2.4m long board 100l , and its size never was a problem , I wished I had 150l to rest on it and 1,5m to carry in my car

For the installation of the gong rails think of lining it well with fiberglass and/or carbon fiber. You can even add some carbon kite type carbon rod between the box and the deck of the board for more solidity and to avoid tearing.


Fresh new from today!
I finally took the decision to go longer with the board by adding a 25 cm foam block. It will then measure 1500x60x12 cm. That will result in approximately 100 Liters.
I used wood glue, to glue both the three layers between them and the board. The junction is not super clean. I will go for expansive foam to make the junction clean and smooth.


I also used my home made hot wire cutter: work great! Only thing is that it makes “curly” cuts because I am using a single metal string from a brake cable :thinking:

Well received @Manu, I Indeed plan to apply a layer of carbon fiber between the board and the Gong Box.

For the hot wire cutter I use 0.5mm constantan wire like this, works great with an old notebook PSU.
US $1.89 10% Off | uxcell Hot Sale 1pcs 7.5m 24.6ft Nichrome Wire Dia 0.5mm Cr20Ni80 Heating Wire 24 Gauge AWG Roll 5.551Ohm/m Resistance Wire

Hello guys,
Fresh news from the shed.
I just finished making the lateral templates for the board from plexiglass panel. I did make two of each to attach them at both ends of the board.

Here is the front:

And here the back screwed to the foam block:

As I told you my custom made hot wire cutter makes some curly/ wavy cuts. I sanded it afterward and the result is OK (@sat_be, thank for the info. may be useful for my next board :wink: )

I did make a first mocke up of the shape of the board. What is your thought? It is very simple/basic. I don’t know if I trimmed too much of the board and if I should go for a more conventional/ rounded design.

This is what I trimmed on mine , from 60cm wide

I did the same from thickness to the top and bottom with 2 wood template ( smaller one for the top )

Thank you @Alexandre,

I did the same as you for the up and bottom templates. I used wood:

Still a lot to do. And time to spend on sanding !

Do you know guys how to fill/ smoothen little scratches/ holes ?
YouTube videos were talking about microbaloons :thinking:

Hello guys,

Still sanding the board here :mask:

Like I said in my previous post I still have some little holes/ scratches.
What do yu use to fill them? I read about microbaloons, Epoxy filler or even wood putty. It is about little scratches here.

Thanks in advance.

I used thickened epoxy with microballoons to fill my big gaps. Its harder then the foam so you have to be careful sanding other wise you will get low spots in the foam surrounding the filler. Once I was ready to fiberglass i filled in any small noticeable low spots with thick microballoons filler and then applied the fiberglass.

johnnybegood. You can buy premixed fairing epoxy mix from some epoxy companies like System 3.
For most just add the thickener, filler, that you like, Adhesive for joints and fairing additive for smoothing.
Saw dust is fine for making adhesive filler, specially when it is not visible.
Make sanding blocks of different grits to smooth with. I rubber cement belt sander belts. They last forever.
The sooner you sand the easier it is, but it is more toxic. Use a respirator. When you want to get very smooth use water and wet/dry paper. from 200 to 800. you can get as smooth as you want but dont’ take forever. The board ends up in the air!