for the ESC, the more I think about it, the more I think going with a Raiden is a better option. The Flipsky is rated up to 12S per specs.
Or makerx HI 200 Go-FOC HI200/HI100 4-16s 75V 300A electric Surfboard Electric Motorcycle Electric kart bicycle ESC VESC - MakerX
75V version. You would need to waterproof it yourself and attach watercooling if you need it.
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thanks Daniel. HV200 would be a good option too. I’m good to build the water-cooling following the @Flightjunkie methodology with the tube around the IP68 aluminum box
@sat_be is there a good reason to go for the Flipsky vs the Maker x? voltage or 65161 compatibility/issues?
I had personnaly a way better experienced with MakerX. They sent a replacement within one week and half when I fried it. And even if it was my fault pushing past resonable current they offered me a good deal on the replacement unit. I have been dealing with Flipsky and Maytech by the past, the customer service was terrible.
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The Flipsky 75200 that is available is slightly different (2nd uart, bigger caps and a lid), makerX gofoc hi200 and HGL tech are identical. The Flipsky had a production batch with wrong resistors, see here: Has anyone successfully used the Flipsky FSESC 75200 with the FS65161 motor? - #42 by jkoljo
They are all copies of trampa75300 / TeamTriforce A200Sv2. Max Voltage is 16S. The Flipsky is only 219$ on BG but they might try to sell off that bad batch, better buy from Flipsky and check with them beforehand, if it is the fixed version. Or just get the makerX or HGLtech. If you need the uart to display telemetry on the remote, you can get the metr.at can version to log.
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Hello from bordeaux 
Good idea i use the same way and no problem after 200km of riding and about 25 session hte lastntwo years and charging at 5amp/h for my two 6s 10p of samsung 30q 
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you’re in Bordeaux as well?!
awesome mate! what about this one?!
Not at the city but Very near St André de cubzac N10 direction Angoulême
i ride a home (private lake ) or in local river or at sanguinet lake (no salt water ) we rent boat in summer at sanguinet marine🤙 maybe ready for the océan with salt water the next year because i Never pratice foil before efoil like you ,and i think i needed pratice befor erinding thé waves😆
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I’m in Bassens! !!!
Carement pas loin cool …si un weekend ou il fait beau tu veut venir voir comment sa ce passe j’aurai pas mal de conseil à te donner en direct Live hésite pas en mp pour pas pourire ton fil 
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Guys, I’m moving. I’ve ordered the P42 cells 
I need now to decide on the ESC, remote & props !
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Or the Gong carbon Tbar with 150kg high density PU foam core to be drilled …
'Efoil V3 - STL files for Gong foil and Flipsky motor 12mm - Parts list - Schematics - #201 by jeffM
Thanks and big up to you all. Thanks a lot Tibo ! I’m moving forward
Ordered
- 130 P42 for a 14S9P (with some spares) + 0.20mm nickel
- MakerX HI200 + BLE module v1
- Flipsky 65161 120kv
Remaining electronics
- Remote
- Dual 7S charger
For the remote, it’s either the Flipsky VX3 or the Maytech one
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Update of the day. Slowly but surely (my money is going away)
I’ve ordered various parts for the eFoil.
some AWG wires (22 AWG / 12 AWG / 10AWG)
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000009001537.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.53c33f1crkYKW7
a male DB15 connector that I will put on the charger side (I plan to use a 14S BMS located outside) and will be using the 14S charger from my eBike.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002087989164.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.7c916b3fMrMel2
a female DB15 connector with cables already wired. I will use this one on the battery box and connect the wires to the negatives poles of my series block of cells.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005003028713390.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.6675474bTTiLZo
two blocks to water-cool the ESC that I will connect in series (big up Tibo!)
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/33047268959.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.48045b468kVdV8
the 14S BMS that will allow me to charge the 14S9P pack (it will be located outside the box) and will connect to the female RS232 cable to balance the cells.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005002205134036.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.42c36ac07K8ri4
Previous order list
- 130 P42 for a 14S9P (with some spares) + 0.20mm nickel
- MakerX HI200 + BLE module v1
- Flipsky 65161 120kv
Remaining electronics
- Remote
As soon as I got the cells, I will design and 3D print the battery enclosure out of PETG. I believe 5mm wall thickness reinforced with carbon fiber on the outside should be enough and keep it strong while ensuring its water resistant ability. Not 100% sure I will put epoxy/carbon to close the battery box like @Wardy did, although it seems to be a very good option. I may use sikaflex 11FC joint and some black duct tape to reinforce.
Update of the day, I’ve ordered
- 4 Surlok Amphenol 8mm connectors (female) and 2 female connectors. That’s another 120 euro going away.
- 2 Fliteboard propellers (2x35e = 100 euros including shipping & taxes)
I’m also fine-tuning my 3D printer and made a wooden enclosure for it, especially when 3D printing from my garage (and it’s necessary for the ASA, I’m using PETG for the box)! I’ve also connected octoprint with cura to make the printing exercise a more friendly experience! As soon as I got the cells, I will start the box design and launch the print!
For the bottom & top of the battery box, I was thinking of using 7mm EPS that I will carbonfiber/epoxy to the “walls” made our of 40% infill PETG
Thanks a lot guys for the support and advices
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Hope you don’t heat up too much, as I did the same to print in L “ABS” and burnt components and warped some parts of the printer, this type of printer is really not intended to be locked up!
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hey @philippe all electronics are outside of the chamber. Maximum heat so far inside the chamber is less than 30°C after 4 hours of print of PETG (Bed:70°C / Hotend : 238°C). I also have a 120mm fan on the top that I will setup with a temp detector at a certain value to extract air if needed.
all good
so, that’s very good 
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