Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources

Manu I am writting just to remind you, if you can send me the mast clamp. Thank you very much

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The link of the STL for the GONG Allvator Mast Clamp
https://www.thingiverse.com/carvalhoemmanuel/designs

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Manu thank you very much😀

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I got the o-rings and am trying to trison the tight junction tube and mast clamp …

Hi,

Thanks for providing so much information about your project.

The only thing missing here is a Electric Diagram will all the components that you have used and the way you have connected it. Could you provide such diagram?

Best Regards,

João Rebelo

Done, here it is. I also updated the first post.

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What value shunt have you used inline to your batteries

It’s a 100A/75mV shunt that came with the amp/volt meter: Amazon.com. I added it to my material list.

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Just to let you known , apparently @Gobbla used this kind of thing with shunt and it was off by x1.6 , prefer a hall effect one with adjustage screw and double Check the value with this:
https://www.amazon.fr/UNI-T-UT210E-mètres-Testeur-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/ref=asc_df_B00O1Q2HOQ/?tag=googshopfr-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=51038388126&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14374052407015617376&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006094&hvtargid=pla-276332453915&psc=1


Pink arrow : measure with shunt
Yellow arrow : measure with hall sensor
Green arrow : Mesure with metrix mx 655

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@Yinnon_Haviv did you get any further with testing your PG gland cable entry into the mast clamp? I’m keen to do similar and hear your result.

Nope, I didn’t get back to this. sorry.

I printed the mat flange with the cable glands and made a test of waterproofness but in static … no leak … I silicone mounting screw threads of the glands.

@pacificmeister

First of all - thanks for posting these amazing resources!

I am attempting a build based on your design and at the moment there is a long delivery time (12 weeks!) for the Neugart PL40 5:1 drive. However, 8:1 are available. What are your thoughts on using this ratio instead? I will be using a SSS 56104 500 Kv motor and a VESC 6.

Could the pitch of the prop be adjusted to compensate? Or should I simply wait for the 5:1 gearbox?

Also, it would be interesting to hear if anyone has sucessfully used any of the Chinese copies of the Neugart gearbox.

Hello ,
Do you think that the VESC6 can resist the amperage asked to get out of the water …?

It is a VESC 6.4. Do you think it is too small?
It is rated 80A continous 120A burst.
At 12s the power would be about 50v x 120A = 6Kw burst and 4K2 continous.
I have not been able to find out how long “burst” could be sustained, but I guess cooling is an important factor. Do you have any figures?

What are your expericences with the VESC? Would you select a Seaking 130A-HV V3 ESC instead?

8:1 should work while it lasts. My first build had a Parker 7:1 and it worked fine until it stripped. You may need to adjust prop a little but I’d start with the 4 blade and see. The 5:1 or 4:1 ratios are supposed to be a little more robust for max torque and max rpm, because of the size of the planets. That was the main reason I went to 5:1.

Thanks for the advice! I will try the 8:1 and see!

This is a question for anyone using a hobby wing 130ahv esc.

Is everyone got water cooling for the esc? Or are you using a alumium plate as a heat sink to the boards external surface

I have not got any esc cooling just a aluminium lid. I am having problems with the board cutting out then motor beeps , then when I leave for a couple minutes it back to normal. This have only started since I using a bigger prop 160mm seems be be struggling for power ( other prop 130mm no issues )

Have anyone else had similar issues.

Hi all! New builder here after discovering this thread yesterday. Looking at exploring the use of a cheap chinese PLE60 (ignoring longevity issues for now), with square flanges turned down to the 57mm housing diameter on a lathe - this way the gearbox can be watercooled through the Aluminium housing as is done for the motor. Will update as to the success of this idea!

Just a quick question though @pacificmeister - I notice in your Rev3 that you are using an openable O-ring solution for the rear attachment of the Al tubing - but I can’t see any sort of fixing that holds the rear printed parts on? Obviously the thrust will be pushing it on, however I can imagine prop drag pulling the whole motor/gearbox assembly straight out into the water if this were the case - I therefore assume there is some attachment hiding in there somewhere?

Cheers!
Max