I think you will not get enough torque with a 600KV direct drive, either go geared (5:1 with 12S, 420-600kv) or use a 65162 or 8100 outrunner (wet setup). Or build a jet with direct drive.
Thanks… That was I used
Yes I am wondering this. But I will use a low pitch and a low diameter (between 70-80mm)
It seems (I am not sure) that people use 700-800kv on jet with a diameter ~63mm 4 blades and a lot of pitch…
I have finalized this design and uploaded it to Thingiverse. since I don’t have a 65161 setup (yet) it is UNTESTED on water. But with the 143mm prop for the PM setup I’ve got good results and efficiency. The blade design is identical, only the hub is enlarged for the flipsky/maytech 65161 setup.
Basis specs:
Diameter: 165mm
Pitch: medium, no exact numbers
Blade: 3blade and 2blade design
shaft: 12mm
pin: 4mm
Printed with supports (quite a lot) with a layer height of 0.16mm. Some postprocessing is needed.
Please report back your results on the water in this topic if you tried this prop, this could improve the design and help the cummunity.
My prop (143mm, PM setup) is printed in PLAcarbon with good results, has made a few hours in flight and is still flying high 
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What do you use for wake number? I do not understand the meaning, is it the drag?
hi, thanks for the files. i will soon be testing the 3 blade prop in conjunction with my new spinner. here you can find more pictures. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=thomas.brandstetter.54&set=a.1967000286652048 I expressly say that I only start at the very beginning with the spinner with wings. But first tests have shown that it is possible to increase efficiency in this way.
picture shows the spinner with my modified
plastic prop.
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Great to hear that your First test indicates it maybe works 
Great work 
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Hello founde this metod for strenghtening and smooting any print.
Can this be used for propeller printing.
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This metod can be also use for other parts of efoil that need extra strenght and waterproofing.
Just as a X-link on @noahark’s post. Seems important to me because it contains a summary to other props plus adapters from 12mm threaded shaft to 10mm unthreaded Flippsky ones:
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Hi gents. Is anyone able to tell me what would be the best prop to use for a PM set up that will be 3d printed? Not looking for too much speed at this stage. Just want to get going. Thanks
With or without duct? with the standard PM duct you can stick to the PM prop as well, you will come up on foil at decent speed. The efficiency is not that good, but for your first sessions (learning!) that’s not an issue.
Without a duct you can go with multiple designs in this topic, I’m flying with my design posted here
Hi Jeroen. I’m thinking a duct is a good idea at least for learning. I imagine I’ll be keen to loose it when I’m confident enough. So I’ll start with the PM. Thanks for the advice. Matt
Another question here, the prop below seems to generate some attention on thingiverse but untill now there is no feedback of someone actually flying it in this topic. Please give your comments, maby we can improve the design.
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I came across this radical new prop design…
Reading and watching the video links, the boat version offers a 20% ish increase in efficiency.
“Speed at all RPM’s” improved etc.
Developed originally for quieter drones, it seems radical enough to be considered a breakthrough. It would seem to be a little safer prop design too (for our feet) as it has a “fold back” rather then “knife blade”.
I’d imagined there was a way to get rid of the cavitation (vacuum bubble from the trailing edge at high RPM’s) Greg Sharrow’s design is a reality. Tested and reviewed. “Ya can’t make this stuff up”.
Unfortunately the $2,000 usd price (for my boat) is not sustainable. My suggestion would be to use light weight materials (not SS). Without cavitation (vacuum and ensuing vibration) lighter materials could surely be used. What do you think?
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The only tests you’ll find are carried by Sharrow Marine themselves with other companies / universities making the reports doubtful to me.
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This design is protected by lots of different patents. Take care while replicating it, even for hobby grade use. Not sure how they would react if a community start to use it (or a variation of it), even for “non commercial” purpose…
Here are some of these patents :
Patents apply to commercial use. You can design it and print it and use it
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Looks interesting , I stared to play.
Then the last post from @Sliman_O came up . Guess I will read a bit before doing more
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That’s true, but what about designing it and posting it so that a whole community can use it ?
I was just playing to see how it would be done, I do not have the ability to do the hydrodynamics required.
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