Yes it is right 8AWG. Diameter 6mm. Mine is not too tight but seal well. You can use heat shrink tube to increase diameter. Always make your test
1 Like
Hi,
What did you use for the second seal?
I used a circular seal very soft for both seals. I replaced the original one.
https://serveiestacio.com/es/perfil-de-neopreno-esponjoso-redondo.html
Was succesful in the first time. But not in the second test. For some reason failed this setting.
So I used a lot of silicone to fill the space between these 2 circular seal. With the help of grease applied on the lid, I closed it. And the joint with silicone was formed. 100% not watertight but acceptable after several test. I will use grease along the seal for each session. Make more than one test to verify your setting. I fix handle too using grease and silicone on screw head.
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00IJ9ZZWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1 Like
I was thinking that having a way to suck air out of the hatch, like the rubber corks that seal a wine bottle, would be good for many of these seals. Once you get that suction it is likely to stay sealed. If you do not have it there is probably sand or debris that is keeping the seal from happening. Pablo, I was thinking that a second ‘O’ ring on your mast fitting would not be a bad thing and easy to do if you were starting from the beginning?
I was thinking the same maybe with a little vacuum pump. I will try with a few little candles inside to take out oxygen . So I will get at least 21 percent of vacuum
1 Like
Today a great day! I tested my efoil. Need more practice with this to fly and check some issues on receiver/remote. It loses signal sometimes. I´ve noticed this when remote touch water. Have also some water inside my remote and in the screen.
I hear rare noise in motor too when the board is in contact with water, but when it flies, noise dissapear and its sound is perfect. Beautiful feeling when it flies. I am very happy.
No water inside after session. Grease everywhere 
, but no water
7 Likes
Nice one, Looks like a excellent build, glad you got out and riding!
My remote did exactly the same thing and stayed that way. Annoying. I can see read though if I shade it with my hand. Hard to do with riding especially because my body gets in the way of the 2.4ghz at times and can loose connection… then fly off the board.
1 Like
I use dielectric grease between the plastic and lcd screen. Helps keep water out of there.
2 Likes
The Cnlinko LP16 connectors are a great alternative to the expensive amphenol connectors for a quick connect plug.
But it’s pretty big and 8AWG cable won’t fit tight in the cable gland.
I’m now trying to modify the LP12 for 8mm bullets. However 8AWG would be the biggest cable size it could fit.
If it works out I will show you the results.
Here is a quick size comparison between the LP16 and the LP12
I see you also used some type of aviation plug (the blue one at the left side of your battery pack).
Do you think this type could work too with 8mm bullets inside?
In addition I’m still looking for a quick connect for a water inlet. Not sure what to use there.
1 Like
I am using this:
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005001366346796.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.28713c00N5kZSC&mp=1
I choosed DN7. One part goes to the wall.
Regards,
Pablo
Ahh cool. Can you send a picture on how you installed it in your box?
As I understand it, the hose barb is sticking out.
A flush mount would be really cool
Hi mate, very nice project!!! Clean work and great looking board at the end 
The mast plate seal with o-ring is interesting. Still waterproof ?
Any kill switch on this board ? ( maybe I missed this part)
What is the black stuff connected to the receiver ? A switch to cut the signal ?
Thanks Henry,
Well I use my board a few times, not too much to say everything is perfect. O rings works well at the moment.
The system in the picture is old. I made big changes and add some sensors. But it is the same concept. Yes, the black stuff is a switch to cut signal.
Thanks! does the motor stop instantaneously when the signal from the receiver is cut with your kill switch ? I am planning to turn off the power supply using a Kilovac and a magnetic kill switch as found on the forum but it is a much more expensive solution. Enjoy your rides!!! ( once the summer will be back 
)
My system now is:
Maytech motor 120kV
Maytech receiver and transmitter
ECS Flier Boat 300A
Motor stop a few seconds after signal is lost. Start Power about 80-90% (Less works bad). I cant find a good setup.I can ride but it is difficult to start.
If you remove the duct and replace the propeller with a smaler, more efficient one (milled aluminium diameter 150mm with 6” pitch), it will work better. There are several sources for propellers, you find them in the forum.
Also, the prop (probably a Yamaha 7 1/2 x 7 BA) you used is one of the worst of all. It’s nice and metallic at first glance, but otherwise completely unsuitable for e-foil. I write this here, and not just me, over and over again. From a hydrodynamic point of view, everything is wrong with the propeller (for e-foil) - too large diameter (19 cm), wrong blade shape, hub with a minor flaw and probably a slotted hole. Perhaps it is only suitable as a test propeller, something like the version 0.1 propeller, but only if it is ground down to a smaller diameter, e.g. 14 cm (or 13.5 cm).
For your very successful board (https://efoil.builders/uploads/default/optimized/2X/1/1b85cb75dec460cbcb4365752b5f105c9113eb35_2_999x750.jpeg) you should use only the best propeller!
1 Like
I think diameter is not my problem. Also for safety need duct. I think my problem is to find a good match ESC/Motor, good setup or firmware. But I will try what you suggest. Thanks.