Why not putting the box ON the board in the middle?
I don’t see people doing it and I wonder why. The legs are put in front and behind it anyway.
I disagree. Maybe for all you Jockey shaped dudes its true but i am almost 2m and quite good and shaped at the moment so the extra Torque is defintivly a plus for me 
Just joking No offense
anyway I am doing this Hobby since 4y, the Setup i have now works best for me. I think the drag ist Not that much Higher in 70xxx vs 65xxx, you can compensate with smaller and thin wing. I even Managed to get flying with a gong Fluid S Wing which is really small. On my 120cm Board a 65xxx Motor would Not achieve that. The Wing however Drives really wobbly
Its getting quite offtopic sry.
For your guncase you can OFC choose 20S. But as Said, dont kill yourself
How to Charge such Packs, by BMS or Split in 4X 5S Packs?
Yeah I also think 70 vs 65 motor won’t make much difference in drag, a good vs bad motor mount design will probably have more influence
Good point, which charger do you plan, that’s missing in the components list…
I have a variable smart charger from my EUC’s that I plan to reuse for this project, it’s 74-126 Volt capable and 5-20A capable and I have some “dumb” BMS lying around from another 20S Onewheel project that were extras, so it’s a farily basic setup, planning to put the entire battery pack into a single “case” with BMS.
1 Like
I just checked their stuff it seems fairly cheap at first for 500€ only for the board but then the box being another 1000€ kinda blows the budget out of the water as the gun case is 125€ and maybe another 200-300€ for the Aluminium inside, I am however considering the easyfoil approach as it seems it could be a good setup but the price seems a little steep.
I will try to make a point visually.
This is a group of people having a lot of fun efoiling at 25-30 kmh
This is one person - maybe having fun
Which would you rather do?
PS none of them are riding a gun case😉
2 Likes
Btw I still have a gun case like mine laying around unused, depending on your location (regarding shipping)… if you are interested in using the same one
100+ kgs and 186cm here. still don’t find i need more than the 65161
I lift with gong ypra racing wing and 115cm board. That’s not too bad!
With the aluminium insides or just the gun case itself? ( I am based in Sweden )
I have a few parts like the plates cut to size and the rivet nuts
As well as the aluminum profile
And drawings for the whole thing as well as a small build guide
Need to drill a few holes, countersink, tap and missing some small hardware like screws and stuff
I’m 88kg and 189cm without any gear and as I said it’s party because I have a 20s BMS lying around, I have nickel plates for a 6p or 8p setup it’s also for headroom, as I’d rather have the ability to always ride at 70% of top speed.
@baein one thing that I don’t think has been mentioned much is wing choice and how that plays into it. For a gun case, and someone without foil experience, a large wing that can fly at low speeds is probably a good idea. This would mean you can get off the water at lower speed, lower (but still high) power requirement, and also be more stable flight for learning. However, the higher voltage means you have more speed available and it’s likely more than a large wing can handle. Wings have a speed range where they will feel right and comfortable to ride. A small wing is probably better for speed but would take much more power to lift off with a gun case. So may end up being wing limited in terms of speed and might not have access to what the 20s battery can deliver. Of course you can always swap for a smaller wing at some point (and with Gong parts that will be much easier to do!)
1 Like
Updated list with cost comparision of two potential builds
Guncase variant:
Board: Guncase 150€
Battery: 20s6p Samsung 50S (120 cells) 485€ (or 4p @ 332€) (dumb BMS and nickel already purchased)
Motor: Flipsky 70165 8800 Watt 350€ /w. shipping
Mast / Wing / Fuselage and Mount: Gong 600€ /w. shipping
Motor Mount: 3D Printed mounts for Gong 2€ ( I have printer)
Remote: Flipsky VX3 110€ /w. shipping
VESC: Makerx G300 345€ /w. shipping
Prop: Hyperdrive 140€ /w. shipping
Total: 2182€ so say ~2200€ with other parts needed
Easy Foil variant
Board: Easy Foil board and box 1850€ /w shipping
Battery: 20s6p Samsung 50S (120 cells) 485€ (or 4p @ 332€) (dumb BMS and nickel already purchased)
Motor: Flipsky 65161 6000 Watt 310€ /w. shipping
Mast / Wing / Fuselage and Mount: Gong 600€ /w. shipping
Motor Mount: 3D Printed mounts for Gong 2€ ( I have printer)
Remote: Flipsky VX3 110€ /w. shipping
VESC: Makerx G300 345€ /w. shipping
Prop: Hyperdrive 140€ /w. shipping
Total ~ 3850€
Modify a foil board
Board: Gong Matata EPS Pro + Aluminium bottom plate + 3d Printed parts 650€
Battery: 20s6p Samsung 50S (120 cells) 485€ (or 4p @ 332€) (dumb BMS and nickel already purchased)
Motor: Flipsky 65161 6000 Watt 310€ /w. shipping
Mast / Wing / Fuselage and Mount: Gong 600€ /w. shipping
Motor Mount: 3D Printed mounts for Gong 2€ ( I have printer)
Remote: Flipsky VX3 110€ /w. shipping
VESC: Makerx G300 345€ /w. shipping
Prop: Hyperdrive 140€ /w. shipping
Total: 2650€ ~2700€
So these are the three current paths I see, there are clear benefits to alternative setups that people are suggesting with cost being the main drawback over a gun case, I do consider getting a “regular” board as performance is in my mind, but this being one of many of my hobbies cost is important to this build meanwhile making it a good and fun / reliable ride so it see a lot of use.
Think the structural parts of a guncase build is missing, can’t see box and these being 150.
And the enclosure/box parts for the matata.
I have some deals going around a used Guncase hence cost is low and enclosure box would be mostly 3d printed it’s just some pocket money needed to achieve that.
It’s not just 3D printed peanuts to achieve it. When you cut the recess for the box then structural stiffness and strength is removed, it needs to be replaced with composite fibre or similar.
Especially the foil mount area stiffness is critical for a good board behaviour - and this is where you cut since you want the box/weight to be between your feet for the lowest inertia.
The Gong site has a vast array of items so not sure if this is the board you picked to “modify”
If it is I would point out that with the double concave bottom shape I think you would be hard pressed to find the depth for battery and/or vesc inside the board especially combined with the fairly short length and low volume.
If it won’t fit inside you wouldn’t have deck space to mount externally
It was just an example board to use