Its snowing here so i thought this would be a nice time to start my cooling similar to @sat_be s Build: Daniels (un)geared inflatable (slowly built) - #72 by sat_be
This solution is much more easy because a water tube could disconnect when the radius is getting to small. The Summer gonna show if the aircooling is enogh .
So i bought the biggest cooler i could find, around 30010020 and cut it down to 20010020.
After that I trimmed ~8 - 10 mm flat plane around.
Then I made a hole of the size of the cooling fins in the box.
The direction of the fins is going to be in the direction of surf. This should lead to a maximum air cooling.
Made some Isolation with some rubber from a bike tube. And placed all the components and made some nice cabeling. The placement of the components is pretty nice. If water comes in they stay dry a long time. But the batterys gonna melt .
The edges of the heatsink are really sharp. If i fall i directly fall over it. So i Made some PETG protection frame around it. There will come an aditional one for the screw of the VESC.
yes it did worked really nice at the time, never had a temp-cut and i was running 8S at a constant 120A (280a pics) on a 200A esc, it really depends on the esc or vesc and how long you ride close to its capacity (you can always check the thermal pad on the fets inside) , for me you should be fined
Thats great news thx for your experience
I should be far away of the ESC Limits ^^
Jeah just started to going trough your Builds.
I saw you also have an Takuma V100. I also have one and thought to make a bit faster build with this one.
How is your folding propellor going for durability and efficiency with PETG?
I’m interested in which orientation you are using for printing, and how much infill/wall thickness? It looks as if you have sanded the propellor, so perhaps used supports and printed in the flat orientation?
I have a roll of ePLA-ST which I’m planning to test with a folding propellor, just wondering if yours has been durable for many sessions.
Printed it like this with 6 top/bottom and 6 perimeter layers in esun PLA+, support overhang angle 65° (no support under the propeller blade). I had to offset and rotate:
Z offset 310.6
X rotation 90
y rotation 176
z rotation -26
Thanks michael and sat_be, both look like reasonable ways to print it. 6 walls/top/bottom seems a good idea.
Is KlapppropV4 the updated/fixed STL file, in a previous post above?
I’ve been sent a higher kV motor than I ordered (6374 170kV arrived, instead of 6384 120kV), so it’s going to be spinning at a faster RPM than I wanted. It’ll be with a 6s battery, for a foil drive, so I’m after efficiency with low speed push.
Hi Achim I really like your build. Simple effective cool. Above all with a screwdriverpack as a battery. Wow.
Especially the folding propeller looks great for me, as like you, I want to cruise on our channel in front of the house and also hope to chase waves in the nearby sea, which most probably will be fantastic with your folding prop. Looking around I noticed that some people also took the 63100 because it’s a bit stronger, but I also like your setup because it’s a bit lighter which might be an advantage in the waves. Therefore my first question :
I weigh around 80 kg included my neoprene and my hipe 5.5 is a little bit heavier than yours. are you in the same weight range that It would be safe to assume the setup also works for me?
Which vesc do you actually have there?
Is it actually the motor that determines the choice for the vesc size or the battery?
Which manipulations did you actually make on your motor ? There seems to be a new model , “battle hardened”, at Flipsky that I ask myself If it would maybe be ok to take it as it is, without adding epoxy and change bearings.
i weight around 70kg. But the System has plenty of thrust so i think it could handle your 80kg.
But the folding prop is actually not really reliable so i would not going out in the wafes with it.
But i have several plans how to improve that. I hope i have a reliable version till beginning of summer.
Great , thanks a lot Michael, the vesc is actually a great tip for this price! As for the prop I can go for the Normal version for the beginning.
But just to know, in wich way is the folding prop unreliable? It sometimes does not unfold?
So my investigations about the failure mechanism are right now:
The opening shock when turn up fast (Current controlled VESC) is way to hard.
I Already tried to make it with 100% Infill, it makes it even worse. Because the opening shock on a stiff part is even more stress for the material.
So the my current work is to develop a 2 phase opening of the Prop. Version 4.1 becomes a TPU printed dampening system to reduce the opening shock massively. I already did some dry tests. and it seems to work: https://youtu.be/szalWEe53GM
take a look to the gap between the base and the blades. Initially the Blades crash against the TPU dampers. And then at full speed/ Watertrust the blades going to press the dampers together and unfold completely. I am going to make now some Watertests and when the system survives some hours. you get the files for mass testing
I’m going to try PLA-ST as it is supposed to be 10x as impact tough, compared to PETG or PLA.
A dampening block seems a great idea, with some sort of high density polymer.
Does your ESC regulate on rpm or on current.
→ mine is on current and thats pretty stupid when i start thinking about it. Because the acceleration and the opening shock is pretty hard.
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