ARC200 ordered. Should arrive thursday 
Cant wait to fly again!
I’m planning to use the same ple40 gearbox, just received the pdf catalogue from the supplier. How did you couple the sss56104 and the ple40 gearbox? Only by 3Dprint material or by a modified aluminium motor flange?
So far the gearbox seems to hold up just fine. I have not tested it for longer rides though and I dont know how the heat will affect it. The gearbox mount is 3D-printed in ABS and very similar to teh PM-design.
I can send you the file if you want?
Here is the Fuison360 link to the propulsion unit. Fusion
2 Likes
You gonna need to add an extra heatsink. I’m using one with water-cooling
Thanks. Yes, I will 
Thanks for sharing your info! Good news about this (cheaper) gearbox.
I’m sourcing mine from the link below, I think it’s the same as @cyberfoil
40mm PLE40 verhouding 5:1
Hongjun Store: PLE40
1 Like
Yes. That is the same. But be advised. I have not tested it for more than maybe 40 minutes under real conditions yet. No guarantee it will hold up in the long run.
@cyberfoil Great Design! liked the way how you got rid of that foil’s heavy rod! I was looking at your design and I am wondering what kind of coupling you used between gearbox and prop shaft.
@cyberfoil Just 3D printed sealing part, what size double slip shaft sealing are you using? I am checking with the double slip shaft sealing
from Pacificmeister design and it is so loose
1 Like
@samisin It is a 10x20x7 mm double lip seal. I bought it here (swedish webshop) https://www.kullager.se/product.html/radialtatning-10-x-20-x-7-as?category_id=294
2 Likes
I did put some thought into this so I thought I would share it.
The over all design principle building my board is that the parts could be replaced. If they fail or if any other better option appears. Obviously some things is hard to design generally. As motor diameter for instance. My design is based on the 56mm diameter inrunners.
However one important design requirement is that everything could be dismounted apart for service or part repacement. So; one thing that was a challenge was the cable seal between the mast and the board. I have sen a lot of different solutions here on this forum but I went in a slightly different direction.
As shown below:
A hole in the board with 30mm of 60/56mm aluminium pipe epoxied into the hole. The pipe piece is not shown on the pictures but you get the idea.
The cables and a hose for water cooling is going up through the mast. The cables has 6mm bullet connectors that connects to the ESC. The connectors are small enough to go back through the mast.
A 3D printed part with a outer o-ring to seal against the aluminium pipe. The 8AWG cables has a small o-ring on them and a small groove in the cable holes makes a waterproof cable seal.
The “system” has been tested in real conditions and it works really well. No leaks.
7 Likes
Hi!
Can you tell me what is the final thickness of the final board?
I know that you used 2x 100mm thickness blocks (so it should be 200mm thickness board) but it seems that you did a lot of shaping so the final thickness can be different.
Can you please tell me the final thickness?
Best Regards,
João Rebelo
Hi, sorry, what board are you talking ?
The board is about 120mm thick. I wanted about 100 mm height inside the battery compartment.
The e-foil board 
thanks for the answer