The 50s can according to Samsung push quite a lot of current, but those numbers are known to be a bit inflated. The cell will get very hot and the voltage will drop a lot. And it will degrade faster. (Fewer charge cycles)
On a semi-high P count i think it will be “perfect”.
Check out this video: https://youtu.be/QFnc7pZFSDc
You are correct about your photo. Maybe they were testing with the p50b and then went to the 50s for production.
I generally use the cheapest Lishen elements in the 11s 3p configuration. And when discharged to 3 volts, the battery does not heat up noticeably. By the way, what about the fact that Molicell greatly overstates the capacity? And the capacity of the P50b, measured in tests, is only 4600 mAh. Unlike Chinese tubless, the measured capacity of which coincides with the declared one.
I think there was a mention in a video of them using the “best cells available”. Similar to this thread - “the best cell” for a company selling a product also includes the price. People seem stoked on it with more run time, though I wonder how it they will hold up long term. With normal use 300 cycles will be out of the year warranty period.
I wonder if anyone has done any research on how many cycles it takes a cheap BMS with 80mA balancing currents to destroy a battery with expensive Molicell cells?
Hello,
I have been following this thread with interest since I am read to purchase new cells. I was using samsung30q but now e.g. molicel p50b appear to be the latest shit.
I learned that there are many fake cells in the market and wanted to ask if someone could recommend a reliable source for Europe/Germany.
I assume NKON is the most reliable source in EU: Molicel INR21700-P50B 5000mAh - 50A…_gsMQ…&gclid=CjwKCAjw6s7CBhACEiwAuHQckroTtyzisCanTfPVKrMmOP1sm72VrO_Wa5Offd3QZt-psKACyX-gzhoCjpAQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD1QO9gJ93XFKOV9IhTpCqnWy3pvF
But always have a detailed look. They also sell cells with reduced cycles or disassembled one. At least the disassembled on get also used quite a lot (those are unused, just disassembled due to battery block manufactuing issues or something like that)
Thank you for the feedback. I just finished shopping 
There is a property of cells - grade A or grade B. It is up to the supplier.
Good morning everyone, I just purchased a motor Flipsky 65220 motore 120KV 6000W integrato ESC IP68 BLDC Motor ESC 2-in-1.
Hello everyone, I just purchased a Flipsky model 65220 motor, a 120KV 6000W motor with an integrated IP68 BLDC motor and ESC.
I need advice on the battery pack configuration: 10s at 10p or 13s at 8p, or something else I’d appreciate. I don’t need high speeds because I have a Front 2500 Gong Allvator and a board large enough to start flying. I purchased these batteries: EVE INR21700-40P 4000mAh - with a peak of 50A, Internal Impedance ≤ 13mΩ. I’ve had conflicting opinions on the Russian forum. They tell me that the battery might not last long depending on the consumption of the 3000W max 6000W motor, and they recommended I get the DMEGC INR21700-50E 5000mAh or similar (although some say they heat up too much). Excuse my ignorance. What is the consumption of this motor at normal cruising speed? In your opinion, are the batteries okay, also considering where I live (30/32 degrees in summer). How long could I fly with an optimal battery configuration?
Personally I would go with 5000mah 21700 cell;, either the Samsung 50S, Reliance RS50 or Molicel P50B.
With a large front wing, considering a regular prop (flying rodeo / flite), and a body weight of 80KG, im estimating a usage of 1000W per hour. Not sure why you went with the 65220, the esc is quite weak. Personally woudl have gone with a 75200 type vesc, which sets you at basically the same price.
Optimal battery config would be something like a 12S8P.
Giving you:
8x5000mAh=40Ah
40x3.6Vx12=1728wH
Giving you roughly 1.5 hours of runtime. But chances are you can also go below the 1000W consumption, in that case you will be able to foil longer.
Thanks for the advice. I opted for that type of motor to avoid running pipes and keep things simpler, because there’s algae in my area and it could get into the cooling system. As for the propeller, I have the standard white 173mm 3-blade one available on AliExpress, but I’ve read that many e-foilers opt for the smaller Indonesian two-blade one.
You don’t have to run water pipes if your ESC is bolted on top on the aluminium mast plate. The mast acts a giant heatsink. I never saw my ESC go above 45 celsius even in the summer when it very hot. There is also lots of weeds were I live. I use the Flite prop with the 65161 and no prop guard is much better for weeds. The Flipsky white prop that came with the motor was too big. When riding in weeds I power through them than flip the board in deep water spin the prop and remove the weeds from the wings and then stay in deep water. works for me.
Just a question why is nobody pushing 16s configurations?
For example 65161 or 65220 Flipsky work great it seems on 16S. Of course the RPMs will be higher but we can limit that.
The most positive site is that we lower the current and you can reduce parallel configurations. 65220 will benefit since it has “thin” positive/negative wires to the board
This has been debated quite a few times here with both sides making valid arguments
To me it’s not so much a build argument but rather a practical one. If a higher V results in a higher RPM that means a potentially faster top speed.
I run a 10S battery on a (65161 motor and a Flite prop a very common build here)
I can foil easily at 30kmh with a top speed of over 40kmh.
Falling at 30kmh is hard - 40kmh is brutal in my experience.
I have no need or desire to go faster so no need for higher S count imo
Just to put a little logic behind the falling on water force consider this.
The impact force is proportional to the square of the velocity meaning that a 33% increase in speed (from 30 to 40 km/h) results in more than double the impact force.
Limiting ERPM will limit the max speed? I dont want to go over 30kmh 
Of course you can set limit. In my use case I don’t have to. 
Nice looking battery.
What nickel or steel strips do you use?
Also do you have an example an image of the series connections for this battery?
Great setup, but did you make the box yourself? Can I know what cells you used? Or above all, why do many of you choose high-amperage cells, since parallel configurations add up? No more energy is wasted and the battery drains faster. Aren’t 5000mAh cells with a max 15 amps enough?
