Glad it worked out. I had exactly the same experience.
Mine also cracked with polycarbonate. I lost two of the three aluminium props. The weak spot is the relatively thin wall where the screw goes in. I’ve just printed a set with PET-CF to try and will then try PPA-CF. Ultimately though, I think we need to redesign the hub to have a slightly thicker wall where the screw goes in. I just haven’t had the time.
Agree it needs thicker walls, I have a friend who is going to redesign the hub as he is also using it for foil assist and has better CAD skills than me. He did solve it in the short term though by melting a staple into the weak area 
2 Likes
would you be able to send me the files for these props ?
A simple fix is to do it like Mantafoils and have it split at the base and screw on the three (now). failing pieces to the base.
That way you could print it in the right direction and there would be no more problems.
On the other hand, I have not had any failing.
Printed in PC with no cooling.
Any addition of CF will only weaken layer adhesion and make the problem worse.
I first moved from 2 blades to 3 blades fixed aluminium Volker prop and then moved to FD clones prop which are the best for sure in term of behaviour.
I have no printer at home so always MJF PA12 for hubs. Never had any issue.
1 Like
Hi Eienne, where to buy or to build your FD clones prop ? Thanks
What orientation have you printed yours? I’m wondering if that is my problem. I just printed mine straight up from base to top. This means each line of filament is horizontal. Maybe I should add some angle. Let us know if you did anything different?
The same. Doubt printing at an angle would help much and at least with my printer I would definitely introduce some imbalance.
I only got a STL file. With a proper STEP or something it would be easy to fix.
1 Like
Thanks. I was using PC with 6 walls and 100% infill with a 0.6mm nozzle. Surprised mine failed but yours is fine so hoped it might just be a difference in printing. I’ve made some crude changes to the stl to thicken the weak spot so will give it another go.
I finaly got to test this once inhad first designed perfect cavitation free motor mounts and counter rotating props that work…
can confirm the 'inwards ’ or the outwards orientation does not make any difference to the boards steering or direct line of travel once cavitation issues are solved
1 Like
Did you print those motor masts yourself?
Very cool, I’m very impressed.
Took me a while to try.
I am not sure I notice any difference at 2 deg angle.
My tow is working “ok” at the moment, but I am still struggling at higher speeds.
Once I get to 25 km/h with windchop even earlier, I get crazy ventilation that is also pretty impossible to shake off.
SO I am looking for ways to improve this.
Sealing the pipe for the cables got me from 20 km/h to 25 km/h.
Going to new props 2 blade to 3 blade, made the ventilation more bearable than before, but I still notice it at about the same speed. The props just handle it better.
Any other ideas how to improve this?
Maybe mine just does not have enough mass? Sitting at slightly below 10kg for the complete tow boogie.
Anyone working on rough condition hull design? All existing setups are a bit useless for my choppy conditions
This looks very interesting:
I was considering something similar a while ago.
Wanted to do a catamaran like build, with two outer hulls for the motors, connected by two aluminium profiles for easy transport.
Not really convinced this will work in waves though.
Next idea was some sort of hybrid design.
Basically the same, but in the front add a planing surface, so it wont nose dive.
More ideas than time, though 
1 Like
Hello,
The ventilation issue is pretty common in the windchop, even when the boogie is well set up.
I often ride with my best friend on Zerotow, and I noticed a real difference in perf between his rig and my dual motor dingy tow.
For sure the weight is very important to sit on water when bouncing. Both are around 27 kg
Since we glued some rubber triangle flaps on the back, it’s better in the windchop to keep neutral trim.
General balance is also important. The Zerotow has it’s battery far forward so the tow rope attachement is not so deep (on the waterline). When it jumps at low speed during a take off it keeps an even trim.
Whereas my tow point has to be deeper (under waterline) because my battery is a bit more back positioned. This misalignement creates a rodeo behaviour on loaded take off in windchop.
I also feel a dual motor will always more ventilate because of the proximity of both propeller. A single prop seems to be more healthy. A solution could be a separation wall between both prop. To try…
This is the biggest difference between Zerotow and my dingy tow.
Type of prop is crucial, the difference with a
thick Volker prop and a thin FD clone is very noticeable.
And lastly, the pilot skills becomes important in the windchop :
Sail against the wind like a sailboat
Always take off with backward wind
Crank throttle when riding facing the wind to keep the boogie planning.
Pump with foil when you feel prop ventilation to unload the blades
3 Likes
yes.
I feel like either the lift needs to come from SWATH or foil. Planing hull is just so far from optimal for my conditions. I only foil in 15kn+ windy onshore.