Interested to follow this, I have been wanting some sorta booster jet thing over here, but havent got around to any of it, been too busy foiling! 
This thread was trying to achieve a similar outcome. I wanted to make it all as one sealed box that fit in the board, but really just need to get something going to work out the thrust needed to push a prone foiler onto a wave, got a few people on the ground here that are keen to pursue this, so will keep tabs here!
So today I got version 2 of my tow boogie running and it’s a blast! This version is way more stable, faster, and compact than the last one. It can still lose many more inches once I finalize a design for it. Biggest changes is a shorter pole, trim tab, and a flying rodeo prop. I am beyond impressed by this prop! Just pure performance and on tap power! With quick glances to the remote I’m reading about 20-25 amp draw. It makes the props I designed just totally obsolete.
Anyway lets go over everything. Since v1 I switched to counterclockwise rotating props. This fixed me losing a ton of prop nuts and prop pins. Also I’m less worried about losing this prop because I’m using two locknuts to hold it in place. I REALLY don’t want to lose it.
I’m also using a trim tab. The tab keeps everything nice and level at startup and mid-higher speed. As I ride I see the forced jets of water get pushed down and come back up from the wash from the prop as second rooster tail. Pretty cool to look at. At higher speed I may decide to add another flat trim tab on the opposing side more laterally. I can also adjust the tab left and right to have it turn so I can be on one side of it without it turning.
Also I have moved the Mast holder to ABOVE the board. This makes things way more hydrodynamic and made a BIG impact on higher speed rides. A downside for those with small printbeds that want to print their own mast. I just had an old axis mast lying around and just ordered a base plate. Also just cut a hole at the top of the base plate.
I’ve also shortened the pole considerable and reduced the size of the pole holder. The pole really doesn’t need to be that long. Just long enough so the tow rope doesn’t get chewed up in the prop. Also reduced the size of the pole holder. Made it so I can fold it forward. I will probably redesign the rear fin. Its not really needed, just a holder for the rope.
The Flying Rodeo Prop is by far an AMAZING prop! I have to go back and design my other 3D printed props to see if I can design anything similar to its performance. I kind of did with one prop but the amp draw was just far too much. I can say this thing is perfect for the Tow Boogie. David, you did an amazing job with this Prop! The increase in speed and stability with this prop and the other changes was quite dramatic. I have officially hit the top speed on the 1010 wing and will be moving to the 900 for when I want to hit higher speeds.
I have really enjoyed the tow boogie ALOT it is by far way more fun than any efoil I have ever tried and built. Being whipped around the board and letting go of the rope is some seriously crazy fun. Also a blast to enjoy on those non breaking wave days. It has also improved my pumping muscles as I can just go at it for hours.
You have now sold me on this idea! I am going to get started on one soon. Any more videos to show us with this new version?
I’ll post a video with the v2 and data surrounding for the flying rodeo prop. Also working on a video for Vincent’s remote.
Brilliant project! One thing came to my mind seeing the “tug” from the side profile. Have You considered mowing the mast, mainly the propeller, closer to stern or possible even slightly past it ? This is obviously a very special application, but on a general level on planning huls, usually a location closer to the stern would be considered better?
My first iterations had the prop past the hull. I also played with the motor way forward as well.
With the motor all the way back I had a lot of torque twist issues and rope getting sucked in issues. I think having the motor prop a bit forward allowed the hull to act like a trim tab in a way. I also wasn’t getting the prop sucking up the rope.
With the motor way forward the nose wouldn’t stay in the water. Just too much weight forward with not enough nose rocker. I think this is a good compromise given the available boards without dropping $$$ to build one. I literally got this board for free off Facebook marketplace.
With a bit of 3D reprint you could also position the propeller fore the mast:
PROS:
1- You prevent your rope from tangling
2- There should be a motor phase inversion to move forward. Curious to see which nose pitching moment (up/down)could be got. Down would mean sticking the board nose onto the water surface to create extra board stability.
Cons:
1 -the fore mast prop version is not as protected as it was aft the mast.
2- the fore facing FR prop should have a spherical boss so that it doesn’t become a water parachute.
The only big issue I see is I can’t use my new favorite prop anymore lol. But I really hope someone tries it. I think I’m pretty happy with it right now until I become bored. I was even contemplating trying a dual motor beast. Funny enough I do have 2 65161’s coming in the mail and another flying rodeo prop so I can just get another boogie and try making a Frankenstein beast of a tow boogie. It’s probably best to print my own props and do a counter rotating pair. But that’s a project for another day.
All the best tow boats in the world are inboards. Having the prop under the boat is way better than behind the boat. With the prop under the boat/board you don’t have issues where you raise the nose up out the water and as a result the boat gets on the plane faster.
Yes, from a handling point of view pretty sure that hawing the propeller under the hull is good. All the hull behind the propeller acts like a trim plane stabilizing the trim of the hull. Probably number one priority.
There are some drawbacks also i guess. Efficiency of propellers are usually said to be better when located more at the stern or even behind. It can also be located higher than under the bottom, that again reduce the tendency of lifting the bow. The vertical up and down movement is often the smallest just by the transom, that’s good for the propeller. But over all, for this application, hawing it under the hull is probably a very good compromise, also from a safety point of view best place.
Anyway the whole idea of the tow boat is great, soon we will see someone water skiing behind:)
So cool Valhalla!
Are you still using the same (2) 6s 2200ah lipo batteries in a plastic bag? Are you switching from a potted motor to a mast clamp setup or is that just a prototype?
Thanks for helping beginners!
So I ditched the whole heavy duty plastic bag idea. Was not heavy duty at all. I feel very confident with the batteries in the apache case. So the motor is still the 65161 120Kv from Flipsky. It is on a printed mast clamp attached to a chopped Axis Mast. I had an extra Axis mast due to a seized bolt.
So I finally got some time to data log. The equipment used is as follows: Axis 1010 Front Wing, 75 cm 19mm Mast, 340 Rear Wing, Ultra Short Fuse. Today was mainly to get data for the Flying Rodeo Prop and another Prop I made. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to use the prop I made bc I screwed up the diameter for the shaft. I’ll have to drill it out a bit and rebalance.
I omitted the Temperatures bc I don’t really think most of you found that parameter useful. Also I’m not too confident on the accuracy of the velocity readings but it can’t be too far off.
Also a video of the v2 running as requested. Still some speed left as the large front wing is still holding me back a bit.
Also a demonstration of waterstarting the tow boogie.
1, Start on the belly
2, Give some decent speed
3, Be sure throttle finger is steady, and place back foot on rear pad
4, Push Front foot in between hands
5, Stay low and slowly increase throttle to build speed
6, You should feel more steady and now you can finally apply rear foot pressure
Big tip is on the belly stage be easy on the trigger and build to a steady speed neither accelerating or decelerating as this reduces jerking of the handle.
A file to my mast Clamp for the Axis 19mm Mast. I have another Nose Cone but want to see if it makes a difference with efficiency. Parts needed are listed. For the Hub only print if your Prop hub is less than 54mm. I have a 2mm gap between front and back but I’m sure if you really wanted too you can fill it in. I myself don’t see any negatives having it.
Thanks so much! I was hoping you would share the file. Just happen to have my Axis beginners mast I do’t use anymore. Your videos are great. Towing into swells on a tiny summer day is a dream you have inspired me to achieve.
Tried my best thinking of items needed to build a tow boogie. Im sure Ive missed some stuff but open to suggestions.
a propeller is missing…
I haven’t decide on a good propeller that is accessible for everyone yet. I’m doing more testing coming up next week on some props.
Also if someone can get a diameter for the pvc tube I can get a file for that as well.
Do you have a recommendation for a battery charger? Thanks for the link to the batteries. Been trying to find them for a while. Was about to order from Alibaba but Amazon will be faster.
I like your reports of efficiency cruising at only 25 Amps with the rodeo prop. I’m keen to build a boogie, but I’m concerned about the safety of the open propellor. Have anyone tried a duct / kort nozzle on the ocean rodeo prop, and tested the efficiency change? It seems the kort/rice nozzles can be efficient up to about 10 knots, which seems plenty of speed for a tow boogie.
