Riding test 
satique is no good
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Written 200A as a Max not continious, and even continious can be for 1-2 min …
Water cooling will perform if the fets have a good heat exchange with the plate ( here again depending on quality , padding )
Water is flowing cold : may be the flow is to high and limit the heat transfert ( never tested but that is how it works with my house …) , if the case in cold , the water cold and the fets hots : padding to look at
Yes torque so amp motor ( pre set max value ) will limit the motor rpm so duty ( always above the batt set ) : lower duty , lower rpm , lower power and depending on esc higher fets temp , best to work close to max duty ( kv , voltage , blade : pitch diameter area …)
Static thrust will give the worse condition but you can test your blade, increase one parameter at the time : increase max map motor to 200 and see if you get more duty and may be less heat
But at the end if you fly and enjoy it , numbers numbers …
Pre set numbers that can limit flying ( depending on vesc firmware ) max amp motor , abs , max power , max erpm , bad resistor , filter activated , battery cut off limit ( with voltage sag ) , remote endpoints calibration , and at last battery max amp
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I am having some trouble setting up my VESC settings. When I run the motor setup wizard, the motor spins fine, but when I use remote input it just barely rotates in short bursts of a small movements. When I set up the remote using the wizard, it looks like the input range is right. I have tried it set to current no reverse and duty cycle no reverse. Any suggestions?
I was having basically the same issue (with my MakerX clone). I worked on it for an entire weekend, and the thing that appeared to fix mine was setting the exponential to 40%. I know that may not make any sense, but after trying 3 different firmware, and many, many other variables within those latest 3 VESC firmwares - that is what appeared to fix it for me.
I would like to say I tried to reproduce those same results with repeating my steps with a reflash, but after spending an entire weekend on it, I am just content that it works perfectly right now (so we are going to leave well enough alone for now). 
Thanks for the response. Is that the throttle expo setting? Did you use the polynomial throttle expo mode?
Sorry for not directly answering your question, but this is where I learned it. I am no expert on it (obviously 
), so referring my original source:
Thanks! Sounds like it need to just keep tweaking settings. I may also try resetting the VESC all together and try to start from scratch.
Thank you Alexandre and Sniper for your answers. Since my last message I did 3 more active sessions in water and I think the problem is solved. I start flying at 14 km/h and right after the speed increase automaticaly (without pulling more the trigger) to 20 km/h.
At a speed between 20 and 25km/h I draw between 20 and 40A from the battery, and the temperature ranges from 40 to 50°C.
For the moment, i’m learning, so I do a lot of crashes ^^ and the ESC have time to cool down between each crash. Maybe in continuous use it will get too hot but for the moment it’s enought to have fun =) !
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yep , best was FR first prop (small diameter high pitch), its give a really nice kick when lifting , happy it works , enjoy …
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Thank you so much
Facing the same issues
Will try to follow your instructions tomorrow
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Hello.
I have exact same vesc hi200-c V2.2b from makerx.
I dint used it yet but planing soon.
I founde problem on mine.
Thare i 4 voltage rails on vesc pcb. batt rail, 12v rail, 5v rail an 3.3v rail.
Mine 12v rail waas not 12v but 8.6 volts insted.
i think that can indue problems becouse this 12v is supply for mosfet drivers and high dide mosfets gate-s are driven with 12v, so less voltage will induce more heat in mosfet and slower switching…
I found that thay mounted wron resistors on feeadback loop on 12v dc-dc converter (one next to big round blue coil).
If your is like mine change R10 3.3kohm resistor to 5.1kohm resistor.
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So I thought I would add my mechanically simplified explanation that I have developed by problem solving and not knowing anything about electrics, electronics or software. Less to do with programming an more to do with understanding how the VESC makes your system work.
This is the short version: you should aim to have your motor and battery Amps as close to each other as possible (motor will always be slightly higher it seems) ie if your motor is 4kW then aim for a battery Amps of that amount and start with a motor Amps slightly above that and work your motor Amps up according to your setup and see if your performance gets better or worse.
Heres how you know if you are going in the right direction or not: If you up your motor amps (say 30-40V above the battery kW max Amps or until your motor leads get warm) and it makes a slight or marginal improvement then your setup (ie prop) is to blame and not the motor or VESC or your settings, so your battery Amps never gets to max and you are full throttle. This is the take home from this, higher motor Amps (or if motor amps maxes before battery amps maxes) means your system is overtorqued and maxing your battery amps means you are undertorqued or have not reached you absolute max speed yet. In other words the motor is trying all it can to get to where you want it but it never will, hence the motor amps maxing out.
If your setup creates the motor amps to max out long before the battery amps maxes then the VESC will overheat very quickly!
This is the long how I got there explanation:
So this is from countess hours of working through setups, onto the water a couple of times a day to test and tweak to work out how these VESC to motor relationships work. I have a box full of props that I have tried, different dia, diff blade numbers, diff blade sizes/area, diff dimensions etc, off the shelf props like Flite and so on all on a 4kw outrunner.
This seems to be a trend that I have noticed and forgive me if I am wrong but it seemed to work for me to get to and understand of how the VESC, motor and prop all work together and get things working in the right direction.
Firstly I started with the MakerX HI100 as I had no idea what Motor Amps and Battery Amps meant, so I assumed they were the same thing. That seems to be and I’m sure it is where I went wrong initially. So I wanted to get 4kw out of my motor and thought well at 48V that around 80-100A depending on voltage sag etc.
So what I know now is that Motor Amps and Battery Amps (Motor can be 100A while Motor can be 50A as an example) are not the same but seem to have this relationship. The kW of your motor is where you should aim to be so for simplistic case 40V x 100A = 4kW is what I was aiming for the battery. But in 90% of my tests I never saw anywhere close to this number (100A battery) so I started cranking up the Motor Amps while changing props and noticed a less pitchy prop got closer to the 100A and a very pitchy one not. I also noticed that the lower the battery amps and higher the motor amps the faster the VESC heated up regardless of throttle position over 50%.
At this point I moved over to a HI200 as I thought the VESC was to small due to such rapid heating up. Ran the best settings I had seen that far and the HI200 made zero difference and heated up nearly the same amount but only took slightly longer, so in my mind no improvement.
So at this point I had to rethink things and try work out what was going on here as surely a HI200 was way more than I needed. Also still not entirely sure if HI200 means 200A motor or battery? I assume motor as that the one that will always be higher but I could be wrong.
So the above motor amps to battery amps relationship seems to be as follows, to much load on the motor means high motor current without the motor being able to get to its max kW or amps. This mismatch of motor and battery amps heats the VESC up very fast, my one went from 25deg to 90deg in 20sec and it had additional cooling. So the load can be caused by few things together or individually, prop pitch, prop dia, blade area and number of blades or the overall load on the system like how heavy the rider is as all these things are trying to be overcome by the motor, VESC and Battery.
As soon as I realized this relationship I could very easily come up with better choices for the motor and VESC numbers. Now I have a setup where the battery amps and the motor amps are much closer and my speed has gone up by 40% and VESC temp does not go above 42deg no matter how long I go 50% throttle or above.
So lower motor amps (closer to battery amps) is lower VESC temp and less overloading of the motor while at the same time reaching the full potential of the motor kW by drawing max battery amps while doing that.
Just a side note that when you do the motor detection in VESC tool make sure that there is nothing attached to the motor, so output shaft must have nothing attached or anything touching to add any resistance while the detection is being done, it must be a bare motor. I did not know this but perhaps its common knowledge or in the manual which I did not read, but thought it is worth mentioning.
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Any specific numbers?
I think I get what you’re saying but a little confused. Most motor ratings in amps state “Continuous” and “Peak”. Are you saying the Motor amps should match battery amps by continuous or peak? Also Battery amps should be a little better defined like amp hours or mAH. Lastly a concrete example would help.
example: My motor consumes a continuous current of 100 amps @ 4000 watts which requires me to use a ~40 volt battery. At nominal rate of 3.7v per battery, one would need at least a 11s or 12s battery pack. The choice of battery is key because the mAH rating may not include a discharge rate. So a 2200mAH battery at 1C will discharge 2.2 amps for one hour. To reach 100amps you could use Watt’s law W(p) = A(i) x V. 2.2a x 40v = 88w so you would need ~45 batteries for 4000 watts. so 11s45p. So if you wanted to foil two hours at continuous rate of 100amp you would need 11s90p and so on. The discharge rate is important because if 100amps is your continuous and 200amps is peak and you are heavy on the throttle you may overheat something (battery or esc). It may not ever reach 200 amps (because energy is converted to heat instead amps. Thats why its important to understand Motor amps as continuous or peak.
In the above example, theoretically, that’s how I think about what you said. If you could give a concrete example which motor make/model, battery pack (series, parallel, mAH), esc make/model, propeller. make/model/volume of your board, make/model of your foil (incl area cm2), and your weight. Thats how one could make a proper comparison. imo.
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I’m having trouble programming my Flipsky 75200. The input from the remote isn’t coming through the the VESC tool. My receiver board lights up and shows that it is receiving the input from the remote, but the PPM signal isn’t arriving in the VESC tool. I was thinking of buying a PWM knob that I could hook up to the VESC to try and determine whether it is a VESC problem or a receiver problem. Would something like this work?
Thanks,
Mike
I had this problem when the VESC tool version and firmware on the VESC were not matched, so make sure you either use the VESC tool version that matches the VESC firmware or update the VESC firmware to match the VESC tool
Thanks for the suggestion. It looks like they match up. I am thinking it might be a hardware issue. Any thoughts on whether a knob like the one I linked to would work for testing. I was thinking it might be something I could wire to the PPM input on the VESC and figure out if it is a VESC problem or something wrong with my receiver board.
PPM and PWM are different, however in this context are often used interchangeably. I don’t see why that knob wouldn’t work since I believe the VESC should recognize true PPM or PWM. What remote are you using? If you have a multimeter you could also try hook that up to your remote to see if voltage is changing, would at least give you an idea if something is happening. Though I think the problem will likely end up being software/configuration and not hardware.
Thanks Scripto. I do have a multimeter. I’ll give that a try. I also bought one of the potentiometer knobs on Amazon so I’ll be able to test that too soon.
