I wonder with these fully potted remotes if you could submerge them in oil/ corrosion X in a vacuum pot, and then vacuum then release to get the oil into any cracks or crevasses. If you did that every few months it would probably last for ever.
Of course, I dipped in fresh water after each session
I don’t know what the failure was, but when I opened one of the remotes to measure battery voltage, it was normal.
So something in the inner circle
Unfortunately I won’t continue with all these solutions of adding epoxy or dipping in corossion
It doesn’t make sense, I’ll switch to Mayatech
What is most disappointing is the poor support of Flipsky
Maytech is even more worse. After some uses it go full throttle without having a chance to reset. Because spring inside is broken.
Is this because of a bad quality spring or how could you front foot this to prevent the issue?
Yes bad quality spring. Not only me having had this Problem some other users also.
Potted remotes fail by design (over time), better build a remote with a fully waterproof case. Or buy one, there are some commercial fully waterproof remotes available, but they are expensive.
To be fair all the remotes fail over time. I seen Lift, Fliteboard failures. I think its just the nature of the environment. What would provide better longevity is a waterproof design and then also pot the remote.
Foil Drive sells inexpensive replacement springs that are supposed to be better than the original Maytech used.
True but exposing (potted) electronics to salt water is the worst option. Poting and waterproofing is a way to go but makes it harder to repair.
Foam pot cheap HW is anotoer option (Bremote), but also hard to repair (at least it is cost effective).
I built a remote with a waterproff case. I did have some water ingress in the beginning but once you know how to properly waterproof it (epoxy coat on the inside, nitrile rubber seal with silicone grease between body and lid), it holds really well.
Not easy to launch a commercial product with a waterproof case @ an affordable price, I guess that‘s why there isn‘t any available.
Thanks for the feedback. What I don’t understand is how the design is allowing to go full throttle when the spring breaks. By design this could be the other way around and would be way better from a H&S perspective.
Remotes are hard. For every remote I send out for the Boogie I do an air pressure test as well as a vacuum test.
For the pressure test I hang the remote in a transparent cylinder half full of water. Then pressurise to about 30psi for a few minutes, release the pressure quickly and invert the cylinder and look for any bubbles coming out of the remote.
If it passes the pressure test, then I put it in a vacuum pot with a clear lid and pull a vacuum and again watch for bubbles coming out of the remote.
After I figured out these tests I found out that it is also how you do pressure tests for watches after a battery replacement.
We have also added a humidity sensor inside the remote so can monitor and catch slow, microscopic leaks before they become a failure at out at sea.
This is interesting, thanks for sharing.
Do you also have a process to remedy the remotes that fail to pass your pressure tests? Or do they just get sent back or binned?
There have been a few different failure methods identified.
Buttons - which were originally glued in, but are now are over molded and almost always perfect.
Bottom handle, due to microscopic pin holes during molding - very difficult to pick up visually, but show up easily in the vacuum test.
And occasional assembly errors with the main o-ring.
It great picking up the faults before they’re get to the customer as it means we get good data on what to improve - rather than the “remote leaked”
Any failed remotes are opened and I repair by swapping out the faulty parts.
I wonder how many Flipsky and Maytech remotes would survive this
Maytech has upgraded the springs since last year, better quality.
Flipsky VX3 PRO died unexpectedly out of the water.
In the evening turned on fine with half full battery. Then in the morning want to enter water, it didn’t turned on.
The display does not turn on even when charging. No vibration. No ability to do anything even without display.
11 month old. A few tens of sessions in salt water.
There is slight something under the display, may be that is the reason, but there was not any warning. So similar to the above posts, just for the PRO version.
Frustrating. What low quality of products
I also had their controllers and engines destroyed.
A low-level company, without proper customer service
so since yesterday i got these blackspots on the screen.
which suprised me since, last time i had water in, i flushed it with isopropanol and dried it in the oven a lot. I then flushed it with epoxy.
I would appreciate it if anyone in this topic that hasn’t already posted please make one in this new topic. This would help our community.
Thank you😀