Just wonder what is the benefit of putting the battery in the bottom of the board? It seems to disturb an even smooth glide surface with the gap between board and battery. The battery on @hangloose boards evens seems to stick out a bit and not seems to be plane with the surface. I want to assist my wing board just in case of low or no wind. If there is enough wind I want to get on speed by “myself” to lift off. I wonder if that would not create drag which prevents getting on speed. Or this setup meant for e-folling only? I think about a similar setup but on the top of the board.
Another question I got. Is the vaccuum lamination required for stability or “just” having a clean look. I want to cut my board and just laminated with carbon mats but not vacuum it. Would that work?
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That’s a fair question.
Originally I wanted to put the Bopla box in from above too. But I found the better solution from below to use the entire deck pad and not have an annoying box on top.
Since my board is only 45L and 90mm thick, it was a bit tight.
That’s why the box protrudes 4mm from the underwater hull. I don’t think I’ll have any drag problems when I see how much water FoilDrive Gen2 has to displace.
Besides, it’s only during the start phase.
It doesn’t matter when foiling.
And yes, I’ll mainly use the board for eFoiling.
In the waves as an assist with 6384 and a different mast.
To your second question:
I opted for the vacuum laminate because it’s easier overall to laminate the many corners and the laminate presses nicely everywhere.
It should definitely be more stable.
But many people laminate successfully without vacuum.
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here is your Version 
Wall Mount and Leash Gap.
https://www.printables.com/de/model/853640-maytech-mtskr1905wf-controller-chargermount/files
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Foil Drive thanks you for your effort. They will alter slightly, print in MJF and sell it for £200 
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Anyone who knows me now knows that I am always optimizing my designs and never rest.
I have installed parts of mine in V1 on my 71 mast. However, there are now V3s of all the parts on my CAD.
I have optimized and improved a lot of the parts.
My printer ran for a few hours and now I have everything I need to assemble it.
At the same time, I will replace the 71 mast with an 82 V2.
Since I want to swap my 6384/63100 setups with my first build, the LMT-6 plug connection will now be used everywhere.
My daughter will get the 71 mast with the 6384 in efoil position.
I will also use my 6384 assist motor on the Prone Board for the wave.
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Transfer from the 71cm V1 mast to the 82cm V2 done 
Now I’m going to equip the 71cm with one of my 6384s for my 1. Build.
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Hi Markus…did you redo the baseplate ???..if so, is that on your printables?.. i note the previous version was symmetrical at both ends…looks fantastic as always mate.
Cheers
K
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I have enlarged the section on the V3 a little and the cover. If you are interested, please send me a message. I don’t have it on printables yet.
My first test drive was after 2 minutes finished 
I actually didn’t want to show the pictures.
But I’m doing it anyway.
Mistakes happen to me too.
During the first test under load, the Flydragon broke down. I suspect a hardware error in the controller. Without load, all test runs were fine.
As the saying goes: don’t give up and keep going.
Spare parts such as a new Bopla box and controller are already available for installation at home.
Hangloose Markus
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I think most of us have blown a few speed controllers up. I’m losing faith in the flycolor stuff, I’ve blown a couple x-cross esc’s even with temp/current protection set below their rated values.
Your designs and skills are still epic and have given me and I’m sure many others inspiration to make better toys!
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You have to keep trying, I have burned a few VESC
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Really sorry to hear this. Do you think you will stick with the same ESC or try another variant?
I am so sorry for you, I really hope you have been able to save some parts like the battery that is quite expensive. Your projects are so clever and professionnal, don’t be discouraged. Good luck with the re-construction 
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Get your self a spinted vesc, you always want to set a current limit, you also get silent and smooth foc operation, totally worth
I will no longer use a Chinese controller for the Prone board.
I don’t want to experience what happened to me again.
I have decided to use a controller from Germany.
It is a Kontronik Kosmik 200A. Developed and produced in Germany.
No VESC
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Cant keep a good man down…u will succeed im sure. That Kontronik is.pretty pricey no???.
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Yes, new price 850€.
I got the controller used for 450€