Yes, you are actually right.
The fuse is new.
It makes no difference in an electrical circuit whether the fuse is in the plus or minus line.
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Vesc hardware is hit or miss, but After testing 5 different hardware with bench tests, I Can Say there are some gems hidden in the crap.
Lots of people reccomend the flycolor, but without actual phase current and thermal regulation, the risk of overcurrent and over temp is very high, unless you have the right voltage, right kV, right prop, right foil, right conditions and rider weight.
Its a 12 fet with very good fets, so it’s able to witstand a lot of abuse, but I have now seen a lot of those burned down.
Sorry for your loss!
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Well written Adam. There’s nothing to add 
Of the 5 you have bench tested is there one you would recommend?
First build
Assist only, 6484 outrunner, 8s3p 21700 P42A moly, 85kg rider.
A bit out of topic here, but the makerbase 84100hp ticks all the right boxes. Pushed it up to 190A phase and it handles close to 100A phase continuous without cooling. Bluetooth built in and clean current mesurement across the range, power switch compatible.
The mks 60100hp Is flawled on the current mesurement above 50A, mks75200 Can not mesure inductance properly, flipsky 75100v2 has variable current offset and no phase filters… List goes on 
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Finished my 3 Setups for the Prone and 1.Assist Build. All of my setups now have the rectangular connectors and are therefore compatible with Assist and Prone.
71 Slingshot, 6384
82 Slingshot, 63100
Assist 6384 with clean 71/91 Slingshot
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Yes, here are the files:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bZbGKcCt1O4EM2hLAghg_X-u3JlccyhD?usp=sharing
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@hangloose Personally, I’ve cooked two ecs, (plus BEC & Rx) and haven’t even made it to the water! I feel bad, your design and execution it top notch. Just a sign that after 10,000 hrs the rest of us may have a chance of catching up with a master!
Having experience with all types of board building, may suggest is pouring some expanding foam around the Bopla box (w/release agent on box if you ever want to take it out clean). You may want to print something to keep the conduit to the tail clear.
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Thanks,
very useful for me.
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Yesterday I had my third session with my Prone board at my home spot.
Everything went perfectly.
But after 11km and a total of 3 hours of engine running, it dismantled two ceramic bearings.
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I will replace the ceramic bearings with stainless steel.
Thanks @sat_be for the recommendation.
I will reseal the stator and rotor with epoxy paint.
I will inform Chris from Saite Motors about the ceramic bearings.
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As with my first build, I replaced my V1 pod with the V2.
This time I chose Nylon PA6-CF20 as the filament for the new pod.
https://www.printables.com/de/model/985671-6374638463100-efoil-motorpod-slingshot-axis-gong-v
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What nylon did you go with?
Tested a roll from sainsmart and it is moist as a noodle and parts are not as rigid as petg-cf.
Are you not worried about water content absorbed ?
I wanted to test a roll of nylon for other functional parts. The nylon I used makes a very good impression and is even more stable than my PETG-CF.
I store my filament rolls in a large Pelicase with silica granulate. This gives my filament a moisture content of 14%.
That is a very good price. Paid twice as much for mine. Do you have a print profile (prusa/orca)? 0.4 or 0.6 nozzle?
My spool has been drying for a few weeks I will give another go.
But worried it will absorb too much moisture during use 
Unfortunately I can’t give you a Prusa or Orca profile because I’m using Cura Slicer.
But my settings are:
Flow 72%
Nozzle 295°C
Bed 85°C
6 Walls
35% Grid Infill