After the Foil.Zone server backup, some replies from me are gone. But no problem.
My connector is finally finished.
This time I poured the sealant directly without using a negative form.
Next step is the Bopla Box.
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Pro level as always. How will esc be cooled?
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Originally I wanted passive cooling directly on the aluminum box. But unfortunately that doesn’t fit the place. Now an aluminum block goes into the gap on the front wall.
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Aeronautical grade
Nice work mate! 
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I wish id gone the 3 phase cables through the mast on my slingshot mast!!!..it was the single most frustrating part of the build for me threading a three core cable 25cm!!!..i love the base plate, will you be sharing that stl?Processing: 1000008904.jpg…
K
Yes, of course I can share the MastBase with you. I’ll write you a message.
Oh great, thank you… i was going to draft one up but youve incorporated some good ideas in there… i might get another mast (they’re really inexpensive in tbe UK) and redo what ive already done !
K.
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In the last few days I’ve been thinking about how best to transport my mast in a motorhome or car.
I quickly constructed a spacer so that I could lay the mast flat and protect the propeller and motor.
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Very impressive work!
The quality of your print results is really nice.
Can you share some of the details on your setup?
Printer type and model
Slicer program
Filament brand
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Thanks so much.
Oh, that’s going to be difficult.
I have a fully modded Anycubic Vyper.
The mods on the printer alone took over 1.5 years. Only the frame on my printer is original 
Different motherboard and Klipper make the subtle difference with good components.
This includes my 7 years of experience in 3D printing. If I were to buy a printer now it would be a Bambu.
It can keep up with mine in terms of quality.
But I just have too much fun constructing and tinkering and screwing.
Slicer: Cura
Filament: Smartfill ASA Red Ruby 250°C
Enclosure 45°C
PETG-CF 
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They are indeed very nice prints! Making FDM look like a resin print. One reason I enjoy @hangloose updates is seeing the excellent prints. 3D printing is a deep rabbit role with so many parameters and details to tweak. It can be an entire hobby unto itself but I think for most of us this forum it’s just a means to an end. We are having a chance here to see what happens when someone takes the time to really dial in the settings for a filament on a good printer. Keep up the good work @hangloose!
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I purchased a new printer the other day. It was between the Bambu and Creality K1 Max. In the end I went the K1 Max route and I needed the extra size and didn’t need multi-colour.
I can tell you once dialled in it is freaking insane! It can keep up with the Bambu WRT both speed and quality for less money. Prints that used to take me 10-12hrs now take me 3-4hrs.
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I don’t care about how long a print takes. Better a little slower and top layer adhesion or quality.
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I fully understand the difference between Creality and Bambu when I contact support. I have two printers: Ender 5 S1 and X1C. Ender worked for a couple of months, after which all sorts of breakdowns began to haunt me. For the past six months I have been communicating with Creality support service, whose representatives have been playing the role of good and bad cop all this time. The good cop promises to send the parts. A week later, an email arrives from the bad cop, in which he once again asks to do 10 tests, shoot five videos, and promises to eventually give recommendations for self-repair. All these six months the X1C has been working smoothly, sometimes I just lubricate its screw racks.
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I apologize for the hyjack of your build thread.
I will create a new topic on 3D printer and hopefully the conversation will move there as it is quite interesting.
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buy cheap buy twice or better
The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten
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No sure why this is directed at me… My prints on the K1 Max are production quality…
give it some month
20 char