2. Build from South Germany. Prone Board, SAITE 63100, 12S7P Molicel P42A

Anyone who knows my posts knows that I am never satisfied with anything and am constantly optimizing my creations. Since I preferred to have the capacitor bank with the ESC, I changed the height of my ESC cover so that the bank is integrated.

Red Filament: Smartfill ASA Red Ruby
Black Filament: Extrudr ASA-CF

Next steps, the aluminum block is attached and adjusted for the gap.


Could i ask you to check what the stator width is on the saite 63100? The freerchobby 63100 i got is 74mm, stator width seem to vary a bit on the different seller’s motors.

Why did you decide on the 63100 instead of a 6384?

I think you mean stator length?

Since I operate the Proneboard as a pure eFoil in Germany, I was looking for a more powerful motor like the 6384.
That’s why it became the 63100.
In addition, the processing and concentricity of the Saite motor is significantly better than the 6384.
It’s difficult for me to measure the stator length because my MotorPod is completely completed!

Unfortunately, since I don’t have access to a milling machine, I had to sand the aluminum block to size using a chop saw and a belt sander.
I like to use 3D printing stencils for customization.

I used stainless steel helicoils in the Bopla box.
In the long run, this is simply a better screw connection than screwing directly into aluminum.

Since @tosh.jah is currently doing a similar project with a ProneBoard, we exchange ideas every day.
That’s why I love this forum!

THX @tosh.jah for the Alu Block and your ideas


Take a look at either Sherline or Taig mills. They are compact but can cut Aluminium very accurately. I bought a used Sherline when I started all my DIY efoils and its been a massive help with all my projects.

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Didn’t you get 3x saite motors? If you can’t find the time now maybe you could check when you open them next time for bearing replacement.

Yes. But that was a collective order.
I only have one left.

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Is heat conduction significantly better from the ESC to the aluminium of the Bopla box ??

I think it would be even better without the aluminum block. But unfortunately that doesn’t work with my design.
I have to bridge the gap.

Since I want to continue working on my Bopla box with just one skin top, I created my own seal for my cables.


You know there are off the shelf inserts like that, for almost any need, even split ones that allow you to remove the seal?


The ESC is finally in its place :call_me_hand:


Looking for this thermal glue (therefore with sticking properties)… called “Silverbead” I didn’t know, I came across this site that compares prices across Amazon shops (shipping costs :face_with_monocle:)

It’s only 1.2w/mk, why this specific adhesive?

There are options like High Silver Thermal adhesive 2x 10 g | innovatek Webshop

(It’s got 6x higher thermal conduction)

Looking good as always, i think the cable inlet might be a failure point in this position, a single drop of water will kill the esc being this close.

It’s better to have the esc so that you could get a tiny amount of water in the box without issues. This has saved my esc from issues some times already. It seems the seals do some relaxation over time so the gland might leak a tiny bit after a year or so and needs tightening.

The thermal adhesive was recommended to me and has been adequately tested.
There is only a thin film of glue between the aluminum block and my box.

I’m not worried about the cable entry.
It’s absolutely sealed. And even if water gets in, the water must be 3cm high in the box until it reaches the ESC. In addition, the ESC is sealed.

The box is installed in the board from below.

Don’t know if i understand the solution then, seems cables (which water leaks will follow) are routed straight above the esc, without a 100% sealed case around?