Anyone who knows my posts knows that I am never satisfied with anything and am constantly optimizing my creations. Since I preferred to have the capacitor bank with the ESC, I changed the height of my ESC cover so that the bank is integrated.
Red Filament: Smartfill ASA Red Ruby
Black Filament: Extrudr ASA-CF
Could i ask you to check what the stator width is on the saite 63100? The freerchobby 63100 i got is 74mm, stator width seem to vary a bit on the different seller’s motors.
Why did you decide on the 63100 instead of a 6384?
Since I operate the Proneboard as a pure eFoil in Germany, I was looking for a more powerful motor like the 6384.
That’s why it became the 63100.
In addition, the processing and concentricity of the Saite motor is significantly better than the 6384.
It’s difficult for me to measure the stator length because my MotorPod is completely completed!
Unfortunately, since I don’t have access to a milling machine, I had to sand the aluminum block to size using a chop saw and a belt sander.
I like to use 3D printing stencils for customization.
I used stainless steel helicoils in the Bopla box.
In the long run, this is simply a better screw connection than screwing directly into aluminum.
Since @tosh.jah is currently doing a similar project with a ProneBoard, we exchange ideas every day.
That’s why I love this forum!
Take a look at either Sherline or Taig mills. They are compact but can cut Aluminium very accurately. I bought a used Sherline when I started all my DIY efoils and its been a massive help with all my projects.
Looking for this thermal glue (therefore with sticking properties)… called “Silverbead” I didn’t know, I came across this site that compares prices across Amazon shops (shipping costs ) https://www.hagglezon.com/en/s/Silverbead
Looking good as always, i think the cable inlet might be a failure point in this position, a single drop of water will kill the esc being this close.
It’s better to have the esc so that you could get a tiny amount of water in the box without issues. This has saved my esc from issues some times already. It seems the seals do some relaxation over time so the gland might leak a tiny bit after a year or so and needs tightening.
The thermal adhesive was recommended to me and has been adequately tested.
There is only a thin film of glue between the aluminum block and my box.
I’m not worried about the cable entry.
It’s absolutely sealed. And even if water gets in, the water must be 3cm high in the box until it reaches the ESC. In addition, the ESC is sealed.
Don’t know if i understand the solution then, seems cables (which water leaks will follow) are routed straight above the esc, without a 100% sealed case around?
Today I completed my Bopla Box
Everything wired and electrically checked.
There is space for 2x10S3P from my Assist in the box.
When the cells are available again at NKON, I will build my main battery 12S7P.
@hangloose what a great pleasure to read and watch your photo ! your posts exude quality and love of a job well done. It relaxes me to see that it still exists. Thank you for taking the time to share with us