80100 direct cooling

If you want a number I would say 1100-1200cm2 …

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Ok thanks, the F one ic6 foil is also thick but only 850cm2. Maybe i will go for this rl boards optimized foil for efoiling. Not sure how much m2 this wing is. I made the battery from 14s to 11s now and have the 2 blade 3d printed prop. I also cut down the Aluminium 7 1/4 5 pitch prop letting the motor with prop spinning against the sanding machine and the angle grinder. It worked Nice but now I have thick blades. Does the back end of the blade needs to be sharp? Like the 3d printed prop ?

Not necessarily scary sharp, but seen sideways, the blade should look like plane wings… if the back is too thick, i guess it will create turbulence and be less efficient.
however, grinding down the diameter shouldn’t change that…

The point is that you can print this prop very easy and nice. It is a nice printable prop, nothing more, nothing less.
Other props need support for sure. This one works without support with high surface quality. You can print this from both sides.

The aluminium props may have sharp edges when running inside duct. Otherwise it is dangerous.

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Hello
I want to buy an esc for my next project with the 80100 engine, can someone advise me?thank you

I’m using a 320a flier esc which is working well on my 80100. Also quite a few people using the 400a Flier.
I originally tried the 200a flier but it did not have the capacity needed, I could run and foil for a few minuets but then over heat protection would kick in and I would have to float for a while, so 320a seems to be about the minimum.

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go big. get the 400A Flier and dont worry about overheating issues.

Downloaded yor prop into Fusion. But it only has two blades. Schould I just change the pattern in the construction timeline, or did I download a wrong file?
Prop look awesome by the way :smiley:

When I was a kid, I had a boat very similar to that and planed no problem with 6HP and two 12 year old kids in it. It was a blast on glassy calm water and uh, sort of freaky as the waves picked up.

Hi Mat and Foiledagain,

Yours propeller design look amazing, I have broken two other propeller now and I am looking after a propeller design with thicker blades. Will you share your design with me?

Fusion doesn’t let us share anymore… :frowning:

below you can download the fusion 360 archives, i uploaded both the simple one and the modified one to fit the 80100.

good luck!

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Hi everyone, I very much enjoy reading and learning lots from your posts (new to all of this). I have just ordered a flier boat 22s 400a esc (the red brick) for a kayak motor project but couldn’t find anywhere the out diameter of the esc cooling ports.Maybe some of you have the “brick” and can help me with the diam? Thanks

These are 5mm in diameter x 15mm long, 4x6 vinyl/silicone hose creates a good seal.

Great build log guys. Im looking to start my first build and decided to use the 80100 motor so Im scouring all the relevent threads. This ones a BEAST! I’m particularly interested with the propellers Foiledagain and Mat made and the data you got. Im looking to cast a folding propeller in bronze and was wondering if it would be ok to use one of your models to modify and cast? If so, could you tell me which one you think would be a good candidate for such a project?
You can check out the thread if you’re interested.
https://foil.zone/t/community-designed-produced-folding-propellor/16532
Mani

If you plan to use an outrunner, most people that started with a 80100, moved to a 63100. I also use a modified 63100 for almost 2 years, it works really well so far.

Thanks for the tip @sat_be.

I just tried a 63100, can’t get the same torque as the 80100 which was foolproof, it would drive almost any propeller. I can barely get up with the 1200cm2/smaller RL boards foil but my prop is too high pitch…

I’m printing some new props due to this so with small board, heavy rider and fast wing the 80100 might still have it’s place. What are your best working 63100 props?

Volkers 2 blade: 6384 3d printed propeller - #2 by leachim
and Flite.
I mostly used the flite prop because it is more durable than a printed one. Needs a shaft and an adapter though, whereas the printed one can be directly attached to the Rotor with 4 screws.
Daniels (un)geared inflatable (slowly built) - #55 by sat_be

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you know what you need? one in bronze! :grin:

This was my concern, I’m going to be messing around with torque tubes or belt drives for my build so id rather have too much than not enough at this stage.