Timing degrees at atleast 25? No low voltage cut off?
Yes it is but no I didnt coat the wires
Yes timing at 24 degrees
Tried both props 3d printed and aluminim
I think the water is shorting the phase wires somewhere. As soon as there is enough power it’s shorting. You need to make sure the wires are waterproofed properly.
I have been waiting for this post
How good does this work?
Well I hadn’t the chance to try it yet. In 2 weeks I can tell you more after I’m back from my holidays.
Great can you show the cad files and how much filament did you use? And file type: .step
Thanks
I can share the files after I’m back home. You will need about 200g for the prop (PLA). The other parts are printed in PETG. Don’t try to print the clamp in PLA if you want to have a longer lasting pod.
Riding on sea swell is sooo much fun!
and did you test it?
Looks sick is the 80100 still in the water or is the motor running dry. If so isn’t it overheating?
Thanks
The motor is in the water. The design has some openings for a small water flow.
great location. can zou tell me then the loss of the duct and how efficent it is without?. and im a bit worried about cooling.
this design is for the world record for human powered hydrofoils
decent speed and virtually guaranteed to be the most efficient and very low rpm to avoid injuries
blades look incapable of chopping something off
will find the link…
@Mat as my esc should arrive in the Text Week i was wondering why 4 +/- cables come out of the flier esc. Do I need to solder them together - -and ++ or just connect the battery to one +/- cables.
And do you have any tips for me that I don’t blow a esc again up. The flier is well overpowered but I’m still sceptic.
Thanks