80100 Duct for Safety

Timing degrees at atleast 25? No low voltage cut off?

Yes it is but no I didnt coat the wires

Yes timing at 24 degrees

Tried both props 3d printed and aluminim

I think the water is shorting the phase wires somewhere. As soon as there is enough power it’s shorting. You need to make sure the wires are waterproofed properly.

Did it with hot glue let’s see how it works

That’s my approach to have a streamlined setup with a stiff duct for the 80100:

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I have been waiting for this post :joy:

How good does this work?

Well I hadn’t the chance to try it yet. In 2 weeks I can tell you more after I’m back from my holidays.

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Great can you show the cad files and how much filament did you use? And file type: .step

Thanks

I can share the files after I’m back home. You will need about 200g for the prop (PLA). The other parts are printed in PETG. Don’t try to print the clamp in PLA if you want to have a longer lasting pod.

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Riding on sea swell is sooo much fun!

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and did you test it?

Not yet. Having some water intake into the board. This needs to be fixed first :wink:

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Looks sick is the 80100 still in the water or is the motor running dry. If so isn’t it overheating?

Thanks

The motor is in the water. The design has some openings for a small water flow.

great location. can zou tell me then the loss of the duct and how efficent it is without?. and im a bit worried about cooling.

felix this was more idea for non Canadians
this design is for the world record for human powered hydrofoils

decent speed and virtually guaranteed to be the most efficient and very low rpm to avoid injuries

blades look incapable of chopping something off

will find the link…

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@Mat as my esc should arrive in the Text Week i was wondering why 4 +/- cables come out of the flier esc. Do I need to solder them together - -and ++ or just connect the battery to one +/- cables.

And do you have any tips for me that I don’t blow a esc again up. The flier is well overpowered but I’m still sceptic.

Thanks