Is it worth it to get the Flipsky 75v ESC max 300 amp versus the 60v 200 ESC? running a 120kv flipsky motor
Depends if you wants to get all te power out of it. The Vesc 200 can do 140A (didn’t test more but has 4 235A capable fets per phase side so should be able to push the 200 no problem.) motor current but even with water cooling will get warm in a minute or 2. It can only handle 80a on the motor continuously without getting to warm. But that should be enough power 3.5kW is a lot for a foil.
Thanks. I ordered a 120kv motor from flipsky, 12 mm threaded shaft. I havent found any printable props that would fit that shaft with the threads. Has anyone found any props files for that type of shaft? I could maybe try and switch my shaft to the non-threaded version…
No stick with the threaded. The other one is much more harder to adapt props for. I have a folding prop that should fit yours I just didn’t test mine yet.
Will do, thanks. Do you know of any other Flipsky 65161 props on the forum that are designed for that specific shaft?
There’s a 100+ post thread for that:
Pitch: medium, no exact numbers
Blade: 3blade and 2blade design
Printed with supports (quite a lot) with a layer height of 0.16mm. Some post-processing is needed.
Didn’t I post it all here? 10mm vs. 12mm, adapter, prop, duct…
Please, stop spamming all thread, HGLTECH.
You do not contribute to any knowledge.
I hope The forum members do not buy anything from HGLTECH. I Will for sure not do it after all spamming from different users created lately from HGLTECH.
Please, just post in the comercial thread and contribute instead when you have new product that might be of intressted for The members.
Thanks in advance
Thanks! Much appreciated.
@SoEFoil Yes, I have read through that thread a few times, but you’re right probably a better spot for my questions. Most props i’ve seen on that thread weren’t adapted to a 12mm threaded shaft.
@noahark Yes I have read through and appreciate that all being in one spot. I was having a hard time understanding it though because it didn’t seem like any of the fusion files showed a prop with a threaded hole to fit a threaded shaft. They all look to have smooth holes.
They are supposed to have a smooth hole. You should mount the prop with a nut.
@jkoljo This answered so many questions for me. Thank you. I dont know why i was assuming the prop needed to thread on to the shaft.
A nice nut to use is shown here Blue Mountains Australia Foil Build
Michion suggested the Barrel nut it makes it easy to adapt many propellers to fit. In most cases it will be material off the bore of the propeller.
The long awaited photos. Now that the foiling season is over, I finally have some time to upload some .
The foam cutting using some molds and a hot wire cutter. And test fitting the 3D printed inside.
Internal seal for the electronics.
Rubbers side view ————-^
Complete board (excluding wing)
Inside with and without battery.
Close up of the electronics. Display is for motor runtime, on time, pump time, stats like volts, error’s, precharge info, PWM in and out and more.
The motor connections and the hole tho connect to the mast. The lid made of alumium with some hex pattern to save some weight.
The mast with the connections and the water input for the water cooling. The mast mount is 3d printed in PLA+ but seems to crack after some time so this would need to be made of aluminum
The battery and the second board i made.
And an action pic
This was quite a project and took many design and think hours but was definitely worth it all! Thanks for all the tips i got when starting and have fun foiling!
Please tell me more about the motor phase plugs; they are directly exposed in water? I am looking for a solution like this.
That’s the Amphenol Plugs what I am using in my first Akkubuild!
These are indeed the Surlocks from Amphenol, This is the 120A version. I run it at the exposed waterside. And if you keep them dry inside and do not connect and disconnect in the water they will keep on working.
I have a question.
Why did you exclude the Motor plugs from the waterproof compartment?
Is it so that you can take off the mast without having to open the aluminium lid? But otherwise you have to open the lid anyway each time you take the battery out for charging. I mean why didn’t you put the seal like this?
I excluded them from the water seal to use them as a way to pass power through my box in a waterproof way, and be able to disconnect the mast if needed. If i where to put them in the seal i would need to find a way again to waterproof the cables and make this in such a way it can be disconnected.
Using waterproof connectors solves all these problems in one go.
Ah I see. So you don’t have to worry about the connection between mast and board being waterproof.
I want to make something quite similar. All my electronics will be housed in on waterproof compartment. And then I will have waterproof connections for the motor wires.
The idea is, that I can put the all in one box really easily onto different boards.
However I haven’t found connectors that I like. Surlok Plus would be perfect but too expensive for my taste.