Thanks, no I didn’t calibrate, I just copied the ESC settings that @Jesserosco shared for the Flycolour x-cross and applied to both ESCs, but reversed the motor on one of them. I’ll do that.
Please @ludwig_bre chime in if you don’t agree, but I found that if your use auto throttle calibration on the speed controller. Changing the values of the ocr1a_mid to 2000 in line 85 and the multiplier to 3 on line 92 gets the PWM signal closer to 1000-2000ms that these speed controllers like.
If you adjust the throttle min and max manually in BLHeli then you will just have to play with the numbers til it works like you want it too.
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I calibrated on L0 and then again on L9 according to the instructions at oscarliang.com
- Start with your ESC unpowered.
- Set your radio’s throttle to the maximum position.
- Connect power to your ESC. You’ll hear initialization beeps.
- Once the beeps finish, immediately drop the throttle to zero.
- Listen for a confirmation tone indicating the calibration is successful.
- The motor should now respond immediately to throttle input, confirming the success of the process.
- After calibration, unplugging and re-plugging the ESC will save the new settings.
Should I be using another power level for calibration?
It didn’t make any difference, the 10k resistor side still starts later and spins slower. So should I change the #define STEER_LOWEND 950 values until it’s about even on both motors, or change the values in lines 85 & 92 according to @Jesserosco then adjust my BLHeli min/max settings until I get an even result? Many thanks to you both for helping with this!
You should only calibrate at L9. To get the motors set exactly synced there is another setting in the BREmote RX arduino file that I change. I’ll find it today and post it. I’ve found on all 3 of my dual motor boogies I set them up differently. On one the left motor starts a little earlier and it keeps it tracking straight. You’ll have to play with these settings for your boogie specifically.
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Thanks, good to know they’re all a bit different. Did you just change the one RX line you mentioned, or did you also change STEER_LOWEND, OCR1A_MID and OCR1A_MULTIPLIER?
I dont change the STEER_LOWEND, OCR1A_MID and OCR1A_MULTIPLIER for my Flycolor x-cross. I just manually set the throttles in BL_Heli. For my APD speed controllers I had to change the STEER_LOWEND, OCR1A_MID and OCR1A_MULTIPLIER and then I use line 130 in the communication tab of the BREmote_RX Arduino file to match the throttles. The line is
secondThrottleTime = (OCR1A_MID + (ppmTimeSecond<<OCR1A_MULTIPLIER))/2;
If you want the second motor to start sooner than you would add and if you want it to start later you would subtract. I start with +/- 10 and adjust as necessary to get it like I want it. So, it would look like this if you need to get the motor to start earlier on throttle pull.
secondThrottleTime = (OCR1A_MID + (ppmTimeSecond<<OCR1A_MULTIPLIER))/2+10;
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Is there anybody in the UK that could print and supply me the plastic parts for a BREmote i have all the electronics. I have tried the online 3D printing companies but not getting that far.
Michael
Hi Michael,
If you can’t find someone, contact Jasmin from openfoil.com and ask him for the parts - I am sure he can make you an offer
Cheers I will give that a try.
Michael
First I want to congratulate Ludwig for this incredible piece of hardware and software? This is truly impressive and the way he gives answers is also impressive.
I ordered the electronic Bremote, oprint with my 3D printer the plastic, built it and did all the stuff with the software. It works great on one motor but I want to build a tow with 2 motors. I have 2 flycolor 160 and 2 BEC? When I watch the schema, I do not understand anything because from the flycolor I have just a GND and a PWM (yellow cable). The 5v come from the Bec. So I miss a lot of wire!!!
Which BEC do you have? Something happened to my last reply, so I have to add this for it to post for some reason.
There is good wiring diagram for dual motor here Larsb tow build, Bremote LR and dual motor steering Credit also to @Jesserosco for Pioneering this differential steering.
I have a Mateksys MicroBEC 12S.
I will check that. this forum is so rich that i miss some parts
I would highly encourage you to spend the money on the mateksys pro BEC. I had many issues with the smaller one and I think others on here have also. Since I changed all 3 of my boogies to the pro version I never have any weird anomolies. I also keep the BREmote RX board unplugged until after I connect the battery in case of a voltage spike to the RX board.
https://www.getfpv.com/mateksys-12s-pro-bec-9-55v-to-5v-8v-12v-5a.html
Basically you run the power into the BEC from the main power pad on the speed controller, one ground to the main negative pad on the speed controller, the second ground from the BEC goes to the small ground pad by the signal pad in the speed controller and the power out from the BEC up to the RX board. So the only thing going directly from the BEC to the RX board is the 5v power. The signal and ground come directly from the speed controller. Hopefully that makes sense and there is a few diagrams floating around, I know I posted on jdubs dual motor boogie topic if you search.
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I have ordered 2 BEC Pro . Not very expensive
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My display is slowly dying. Some of the cells on the display are weak or inactive.
It started after a poured a second ‘top-up’ foam, so can I just assume it’s due to poor connections that were maybe disturbed by the foam? The only way to fix is to open the Bremote and improve the display connection?
Could the foam have pushed the display out a bit? Can you try pushing on the display to see if it gets better?
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Yea I’ll try that, I also used 5 min epoxy around the display frame so will have to cut that first.
Hey BREmote crew!.. has anyone down here in NZ (or maybe AUS) managed to source a suitable magnet for the throttle and toggle? The N52 spec of the original doesn’t seem to exist on this side of the planet and the linked sources above don’t seem to ship to NZ… I tried a slightly smaller magnet (closest I could get in NZ) and it is not grunty enough to give a reliable signal…
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