Hi @ludwig_bre in the USA I cant find any source for d3x6mm in N52 grade. I guess metric is not that common here to start with, but even D 0.125 x 0.25 I can only find in N42. The best I can find is D3x6 N42.
Will this work?
If anyone has managed to source the correct spec here in the US please share.
Thx
I got mine from here, if that helps. These have worked fine for me so far.
Part number: D24-N52
Great thank you Ryan, thatâs just what I needed to know.
Iâm using lower grade neodymiums because I couldnât find n52, and they work.
thanks, Im gonna try the n52 ones Ranelson93 suggested in 1/8 x 1/4
Thanks @Ranelson93 for the link!
Regarding the grade, I would strongly recommend to use N52.
Using a lower field strength means less accuracy / resolution on the remote.
This may influence throttle sensitivity and even more the function of the on/off/gear/lock - toggle switch.
I remixed the toggle button with stiffer springs, so it pops back to centre more positively to reduce the likelihood of accidentally turning it on. The original toggle button and springs takes some careful sanding to avoid stickiness.
Also designed a simple clip/holder to mount the bremote on 1" square aluminium on my tow boogie.
The bremote worked well for a tow session today, the original bremote has a noticeably longer range than the erayfoil. And it floats well. Good throttle lever feel.
I would suggest using a sealant such as bostik isr 70-03, or any other viscous glue, to stick the magnet rod covers into the insides of the top structure. I used epoxy as recommended, and it was too runny, which allowed some foaming glue to make itâs way into the magnet rod area.
With regards to the quantity of foaming glue, I needed to completely fill the âtoolâ cup/plunger - a good 5mL of each of the 2 part liquid foam. My first effort didnât produce enough foaming glue to fill the entire remote, which is a problem because you want it to be contiguous throughout the remote from one end to the other.
With more testing and software tweaking, hopefully itâll be a good reliable workhorse. I would prefer if the square end of the magnet rods should be a bit more beefy where it mates with the toggle/throttle, for robustness. I now have a couple in regular use, weâll see how they last.
Thanks for tips Jatem
I would prefer an 18650 battery for longer run time, that was the one good thing about the erayfoil. Whatâs the typical mA current while in use on the bremote.and while turned off?
The range and throttle response is really good, and it sits very comfortably in my (large) hand with the middle angle throttle.
Hello. I designed a different housing for the Bremote electronic.
The only thing you need to take care of is the the small display needs to be soldered by wires to the pcb.
Thatâs really cool. Whatâs the plan for waterproofing? Pot everything with magic gel or similar?
Like the original Bremote it is filled with expanding foam.
Cool design. How does the trigger mechanism work? Is the trigger-feel or tension adjustable? I assume the âV-shapedâ part is some kind of a spring?
I tested some different âspringsâ. This one is comfortable.
âPrinted in ABSâ is not the most common material to print, so spring properties could vary too much when printed in PLA+, PA or PETG. Maybe some trail and error is needed here when building this housing and adjust for material and personal feel/experience. Should be no problem.
Do you have a picture of the trigger/spring mechanism? There is some kind of switch/lock on the side of the remote housing as well?
ABS is not common? I think this is besides PLA the most used material in FDM.
The spring is not really different in ABS or PLA.
Personal feeling? I donât know any remote where you can adjust spring load of the trigger. Pls do not expect this only because it is diy.
I printed several of these to have a nice pressure on the trigger.
Works really nice.
Tomorrow I try to post a video how it works
The remote usually uses 20mA so the 14500 cell with 700mAh should last a good 20-30h on-time.
Off-current is 5uA (0.005mA) so also a long Standby life (multiple years)
I get this message when trying to flash bootloader to the receiver:
avrdude: Expected signature for ATmega328P is 1E 95 0F
Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.
Failed chip erase: uploading error: exit status 1
I am using this board to flash:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWOE0UU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Any ideas?
why dont you simply flash it using the usb connector and ardu IDE?
