As I understand, when not using the throttle and idling, the Vesc battery should be shown as a number 0 - 99. At the moment what I can see is “- -” and at about 10% throttle “- c”, the uart is connected as well as pwm. Maybe it is because I did not change anything in the program for my Vesc battery, I am using 13s. Also what do I need to do with the Tx to display the temperature of the Vesc. The Tx battery is shown when I turn it on and the throttle is working good.
By default the Tx will toggle between battery and temperature, that’s the --(battery) and -c(temp).
In any case “–” means you don’t get any data from the VESC. Please check that UART Rx and Tx to the VESC are correctly connected (you can try to swap them and see if it works then)
Also in SHARED_CONFIG of Rx, you will need to set the “battery empty at” and “battery full at”
to values appropriate for 13S
Thank you. I changed the config h for 13s to 390 and 540 and also swapped the Tx and Rx a few times. It made no difference. My Vx3 can read the Vesc data and I can not see any faults on the cables or the welds.
Ok. In the SHARED_CONFIG of Rx, “#define USE_VESC_UART” is also enabled? Can you connect the Rx via USB to a computer and have a look at the output of the serial monitor? Feel free to drop me a PM for more detailled failure searching.
Housing for Bremote Receiver by toto45 - Thingiverse
I created a housing for the receiver. Maybe it is useful for some of you.
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Turns out that the 14500 battery i got for my bremote build was made out of nano-thin material, I blew a hole in the negative on the first point with my spotwelder. Great, since it forced me to make an 18650 battery handle. This fits nicely in my hand even though the handle is slightly larger.
It should have about 3x more capacity than the 14500 so i’m guessing 60 hours between charging. I’ll share it when built and verified
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One question for the bremote users: is the signal strong enough that you don’t need to put the receiver in the front of your board?
I’m hoping to be able to put it in the main box if possible.
Theoretically the signal should run through the board unless there’s too much carbon. So if the antenna is at the correct orientation and you hold the remote against the board nose it should still get signal.
Finish the model and send it to print.
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Well that’s one way to get the police to have a chat. Best hope they not trigger happy 
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I’ve heard that English laws regarding the purchase of remote controls are very strict )
-What is this in your hands?
-This is my remote control, sir.
-But I see a silencer.
-Yes, I screw the silencer onto the remote control because my 6384 outrunner is quite loud.
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It is realy a great solution!!!
Do you give when all is running well, the files to the community?
As soon as it’s ready. So far I don’t really like how the selector works. I used Toto44’s idea for this node, and he charges money for his model. I need to redesign this node.
Nice to see you borrowed some ideas from my design.
If I can help in any way, just ask.
Thank you. My main problem now is that the material from which I print the plate for the selector (pla, pla сf, petg) does not have sufficient elasticity, it is deformed and, as a result, the part does not work well as a spring. I also need to solve the problem of accessing moving parts to replace them. I’m thinking of making a trigger guard removable, like a MAGPUL trigger guard.
Hi Ludwig. Congrats ! super nice project. I wondering when to choose longe rang versus normal range. If it’s for eFoil, is long suitable (in term of latency - I mean is latency worst on long range versus normal?). Is there some kind of frequence hopping ?
I will buy it but need to find the right suitable version version for me (normal or long) - As a developper, I will me more than happy to contribute to the project too! I also have some skills on 3D design (About macfly1202 - Thingiverse) 
I currently use a VX3 Remote from flipsky and have some issue with signal sometime when starting (or external interference).
If you send me your data, I can check it and maybe let you know how to solve the problems. In my design all moving parts/magnets can be replaced even when fully assembled and filled with foam.
Thanks! The only difference between LR and normal version is the different TX module and external antenna. No change in latency or whatever.