Both vesc should be in UART? Only the first Vesc is with UART and both are connected to the PPM? I did the configuration as in the graphic from Ludvig
Exactly like GitHub, both VESC PWM and the 1st additionally UART
And additionally the settings shown above in VESC tool if you have dual VESCs
I have 2 flipsky waterproof Mni V6.8 plus… a little nightmare to configure…but now thisni working but only in L6. the control ,is very brutal. I have to find the good numbers
Hmm two separate VESC you just follow the instructions for one VESC at a time and set them up completely independently, no need to check the settings linked above, that is only for 2 VESC combined in 1 housing
Check my channel on YouTube for a setup video for VESC
Make sure you are on remote level 9 or whatever you set as maximum before doing the input wizard
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finaly Gotcha! in fact i use a PC version of Vesctool muche more efficient than the Mac version. I could do everything. Thank you Ludwig for the fantastic remote! and the great help! My etow is finally working… just waiting for the good PCB for the nano…
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Reception is incredible. Receiver is in middle of the board, board is Full CFK and submerged about 30cm.
Try this with any other Remote
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Are you in freshwater? Salt is a different story.
In fresh water I can control a Boogie 10m away with the remote underwater, in salt water this drops to a few centimetres.
Freshwater.
Anyway, starting this way with a flipsky or an other cheap China remote was Impossible, even though the antenna was monted at the Tip of the board.
Now RX and Antenna is burried in the middle of the board.
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I believe i had the same problem, i pushed all posible combinations but i suppose not long enough.
I have been testing the data logger function and at the beginning it was working very good but now it is not recording anymore, could be that the memory of the rx is full? is there any way to erase old logs from the rx via wifi? I got auto-logging permanently enabled. (the wesite shows still some place left but the last logs i got recorded are empty and at some point it stopped recording)
Another thing that sometimes happens but so far has not disturbed me is that the GPS speed is stops being shown and the screen starts flashing as if the UART communication between the VESC and the RX had been broken, although the efoil battery status is still being reported…
you got an amazing remote @ludwig_bre !
When memory is full, it will delete the oldest log automatically
You can delete them manually with USB, just enter ?list in the terminal to see the names and then ?delete <name.log> to delete them one by one
Before deleting you can try to debug: Send ?dbit2 to enable log debug output
Then restart the Rx and observe the output on the terminal with GPS having a clear path to the sky (outside)
It should start by enabling GPS… logger should wait for GPS fix… then crate a log file… then every 60 seconds I think it should output a message ‘logger running, free space xx’…
Battery is also flashing though? This is a bug I still need to find and fix, sometimes all UART breaks, both to GPS as well as UART…
You have the newest logger V2.2.7.1?
No, i am running the first logger version, not sure which it is, the one from this post:
It will take me a while to update the rx as i am happy depite sometimes having this hickups and it takes a bit to get the receiver out.
i will try to make a video next time it happens.
Ok, then an update will probably solve this, since I implemented a fix already some time ago
Also recommend to update Tx btw, for the newest collision detection features
Hi everyone
I was thinking of designing a smaller version of the V2 receiver, better suited for eFoil and assist situations where a 2nd output is not needed and size is a concern
I was thinking if the following
changes towards the “normal” Rx currently available:
-
No 2nd motor output: I will probably leave a pad somewhere so you can still read the 2nd signal with an Arduino, but it won’t be plug and play with a 2nd ESC/VESC
-
Simplified UART: One dedicated UART for VESC, one for GPS, fixed ad 3.3V for VESC and 5V for UART
-
No bind and user button - binding will have to be done via software/USB
-
SMA antenna connector not assembled to board, making it much flatter, antenna connected with U.FL directly to the RF module/processor
-
BMS detection input will need external resistors when used (saves a lot of space due to onboard resistors having to be spaced apart otherwise because higher voltage)
Not changed:
- Analog voltage input for ESC users
- Wetness Sensor
- WiFi/BT connection
- Same processor/firmware/RF Link: Compatible with all available tools, remotes and equally good water penetration and range
Open questions:
-
USB C port onboard or with external programming adapter? Would save a lot of space, but also make programming and debugging more tedious
-
What’s the size/shape you prefer? Preferred measurements for width x height please?
-
Leave SMA antenna connector as a footprint so the user can assemble themselves? Takes a lot of space though…
-
Do you even have a need for a smaller Rx? If so, leave a like
Let me know what you think 
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Love it, thanks Ludwig!
USB-C is a nice-to-have, but in foil assist mode I’d completely pot the RX, so a micro cable sticking out would be just fine (whatever is the lighter option I would take)
size and shape: the current Maytech RX is a good size. Square and smallest possible is prob an easy bet
no SMA, U.FL is just as easy. SMA is too heavy for foil assist
Maybe comes with a lightweight potting kit like the BREMote?
Myabe 2, extra 5V pin to attach an LED that shows connection or no connection?
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Sounds great.
As I wrote before, I got the Bremote2 running on this, Wireless Stick Lite(V3), ESP32S3 + SX1262 LoRa Node, Meshtastic and LoRaWAN Compatible – Heltec Automation , but I assume yours will be much more reliable.
I also already have OTA and config over wifi working. Once you have that running on the “real” firmware you only need USB for initial flashing.
For the antenna, can you not use the connector directly on the chip?
Nice idea, thanks!
That’s at least the goal haha
A bit of circuitry is needed for reliable level conversion for GPS and VESC, PWM generation,…
Nice! I also think the firmware will become more stable over time requiring less frequent updates
Yes that’s the plan I proposed above, that one is called U.FL or IPEX. I do not plan to add another one in addition. Made that more clear above too.
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My wishes for a smaller rx:
No bind and user button
antenna connected with U.FL directly to the RF module/processor, no SMA
Leave SMA antenna connector as a footprint : No
no BMS detection i
include a USB C port!
size/shape: can be long, but not to width
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So I am trying to simplify and clean up my cables.
Can you easily explain why we need two BEC’s?
And what failure I can expect if I use only one?
I cannot fit your BEC in there and I’d like to reduce the number of parts that can fail.
Ideally I would just want 4 cables to run to the RX - 5V, GND and two signals.
2 ESCs have their GND connected on their power input. A lot of current flows there and since wires will always have resistance and therefore voltage drop at current, the GND potential of those two ESCs will differ from another
The Rx will generate the PWM signal that is only a few volts, in reference to the GND it gets on each channel
If you connect those signal GNDs as well on the Rx side, the voltage difference from the power cables will introduce interference, that may be degrading the PWM signal
So you need a separate supply for each PWM channels with separate GND, therefore 2 isolated BECs
If you don’t use them, expect interference and one or both motors cutting out randomly
If you want to save space and not use the BREmote BEC, just use ESCs or VESCs with integrated BEC, so they can supply the Rx on their own - you will still need 6 wires though, GND, 5V and SIG each
You remember back then, when we had stereo and cassette players, and sometimes connecting them made them hum? Same thing - GND loop (Brummschleife in German)
Another analogy: Take 2 eSkate boards, control them with 2 independent remotes and try standing one foot on each board without having them drift apart in speed and forcing you into a split - that’s how the Rx feels 
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Already had a discussion with ChatGPT about this, trying to understand.
But it makes no sense to me, eventually AI gave in.
I run BatV and GND from the battery to one BEC and from there to the RX.
I understand, GND for both PWM signals is connected = bad.
Got some quality ones here from iflight and the Matek BEC12s Pro.
Both have full continuity for GND on input and output.
So I replace the one BEC by two of those, I will still have a direct ground connection between PWM0 and PWM1.
Do I need a special BEC that has isolated GND?