Gears can always be changed!
Just click toggle left/right, the remote should show “E-” (meaning “error acknowledged”), then you can switch gears for a few seconds.
If the error stops being reported from the Rx, the display will then go back to normal. If the error persists, it will be shown on the remote again, but can be deleted again with E- and gears can again be changed.
I tried toggling right many times, and even saw the E-, but still stuck on Gear 0. I will try and replicate it at home.
Thats how it should look like:
(The fact that it needs some time to delete in the end is due to smoothing in the Rx, after removing the water it can take up to 10s until the error is not reported anymore, equally it can take up to 10s after closing the contacts until the error is shown)
Thanks, it is the long press toggle to the left or right that I was missing. I tried it now and it changed gears after E-
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Btw the duration how long E- is shown and gears can be changed is this:
The duration you have to push to delete is hard-coded to 500ms in the firmware.
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As I just had to rebuild two remotes - a quick note.
If you feel like a complete idiot when using the potting compound, you are not alone.
I have been extra careful this time and even checked with IPA before filling.
I am convinced the stuff used in the video is not the same provided with the kits.
Mine definately has a certain amount of expansion when curing, not like foam, but still significant.
If I completely fill it, like in the video, I have the resin puring out of everwhere once its starts curing. And the plug inserted at 44:45 will be pushed out again no matter what I do. This is after I filled the remote with IPA before to check for leaks.
Not sure what the solution should be.
Use only half of the stuff first, wait for it to be almost cured, then use the rest?
I am sure it’s the same. It’s shipped from the same company and I myself have used the kit stuff as well
Not sure is there is any reaction to the IPA maybe, or maybe there was just an air bubble that pushed some material out?
Also, if you insert the plug in the front and leave the handle side open, no pressure should be able to build up?
I have done this on 4 remotes now (two for me, two for a friend), same situation on each.
Only used IPA on one and that had fully dried before potting.
Last one I was pretty quick on the process and I had not enough to fully fill the remote and was worried it would not work at all as the connector was not covered at all.
30 minutes later I had both plugs popping out and resin pouring out of the display as well.
I guess if you know about it, its not a big issue.
I think once it starts curing there is too much internal resistance and it still builds up on both sides.
But maybe I am the only one and just doing something wrong.
Interesting… I have no idea what could cause this…
What can help to make it cure less is to cool it to 18…20°C on hot days like today
And for stopping leaks I had good results with putty / plasticine
Important Note
Openfoil has been getting requests for a “BREmote V3”
Please note:
Currently there is no BREmote V3, neither planned nor existing
What you may mean is the V2 Tx, that has GPS added for follow me. For this just order the V2 from openfoil and check the “Tx GPS Modification” checkbox.
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I want a V6. It must also help the foil to fly on fairy dust 
I need fairy dust, so I don’t need a remote anymore
@ludwig_bre I am interested in the V2 for my under board foil assist.
Can you please tell me how big the RX is and if the antenna can be replaced by a UFL antenna cable?
The housing is pretty tight and the material is aluminum, so I need to feed the antenna to the outside.
U.FL can be used
Size I cannot measure ATM, here is the dxf:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/4z61a9c936tpptau64efv/ALY3YFt0IqLvF4fr3mDR554?rlkey=p04p5sbvpejnmw7ybz0bds4p6&st=1rectqtb&dl=0
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Thx, it is 8 mm too wide to fit next to the controller. But stacking might work. I will think about it 
I have a modified version running on a stock heltec dev board you get cheapish off aliexpress.
Size is 58,5mm x 23mm.
But only limited tests so far and reduced funtionality. Did not bother with water ingress or binding or direct battery readout. Though that could probably also be done.
If someone wants that and Ludwig approves, I can share it at some point.
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I will always approve of cool gadgets, I will just not be able to provide support for anything that’s not my hardware
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thanks, everything seem to work now (on land), i have just a small problem.
sometimes when i’m not touching the remote, motors have kind of small pulses alternatively left and right (Bi motor) .
i have a big deadzone on the remote … is there any parameters who can cause that ? thank you.
Thats a problem of your ESCs, not the remote.
Set the min timing in BLHeli 100 higher and disable auto calibration
The one in this image (dont copy the value, add to the one your ESC has saved)
The deadzone can be made smaller in the config (deadzone value) but first I would try to recalibrate the remote, as usually the default deadzone value is fine. It should be kind of big since the plastic / steering-toggle mechanism can drift over time