DIY 6384 Foil Drive Assist from South Germany

For the Trollfactory silicone you didn’t need release agent, right?

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Exactly. With PLA and PETG no release agent is needed.

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Hello. I don’t want to use VESC either.
What kind of ESC do you use?

Hi some advice please? I have a Maytech setup 6384 motor and controller and the esc is the waterproof 160A one, i first tried a 10s3p battery setup which from the start would always cut out at 50% on the throttle, i tried numerous configurations and checks on the wiring but no luck, i then built a 10s2p and 10s battery to test and still teh exact same. The motor testing in the water without load seems good but as soon as i get on the boardand apply 50% throttle it cuts out. Also to note when the power is connected the motor beeps until the controller is on - can this be switched off?

Getting very frustrated please help?

I use the flycolor x-cross hv3 120A, the 160A is good too. I also have the APD 200F3 that are really awesome, but expensive and I had a hard time on the initial setup. I don’t have a lot of testing on the APD’s yet as the wind has been good, so primarily been winging, but the build quality is so much better than the Chinese stuff.

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I have created a new motor pod in the last 2 weeks :call_me_hand:

With my previous motor pod in eFoil position, I gained insights after a few hours.
I have come up with a few ideas and improvements for efoil operation.

  1. Fixed slim clamp on the mast
  2. No front clamp
  3. Maintaining the slim and short design
  4. MotorBase Adapter for different 63 motor bases
  5. Axis, Gong V2 and Slingshot mast mounts
  6. Easy to print and stable
  7. Make all the parts yourself and don’t outsource anything
  8. Easy maintenance of the engine
  9. Engine disassembly without removing the pod on the mast

As always, I chose Extrudr PETG-CF for the new pod.

Slicer settings:

250°, 6 wall lines and 35% grid infill.

MotorBase Adapter: Saintsmart TPU

M3 and M4 fusion nuts are required for the assembly. I recommend and use only the Ruthex nuts.

I made the clamping plate out of 3mm stainless steel. Instead of sheet metal, a 3D printed 4mm plate can also be used.

For the opening in the mast,I chose the last channel in my mast.

I also cast a seal for the clamping plate to provide decoupling. TPU works also

Assembly:

All files online :sunglasses: :call_me_hand:

https://www.printables.com/de/model/985671-6374638463100-efoil-motorpod-slingshot-axis-gong-v

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Excellent work! I wish I could print like that. I couldn’t get the threads of your connector to print well enough, so I remixed it, if that’s OK with you. I plan to pour a silicone gasket eventually, since the TPU doesn’t seem too watertight the way I printed it.

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@hangloose do you got these motor mount also for the 65161 motor?

Not at the moment.
But that could be a winter project.

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Nice remix. That’s ok for me.
Try a Silicon Mold. It’s definitely better as TPU.
I have never water on my gold contacts until now.

That would be perfect, thank you.

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It’s getting cooler in Germany, so I’m going to upgrade my Slingshot board :call_me_hand:.
As with my second build, the Slingshot will have a Bopla box integrated.
I’m upgrading my 10S3P batteries to 12S3P.
I can then use the batteries on both boards.

Next we move on to the Bopla box and interior.:sunglasses:.

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Cool…i was missing your builds !!!

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RX and ESC case constructed and the SkinTop screw connection installed.

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Any advice on shaving my epoxy down a little? (I don’t have access to a lathe) Sandpaper?

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Yes, sandpaper. The thermal epoxy sands very well.

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Maybe create a holder/shaft to put it in a drill press and then sand it or use a file.

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The interior of the Bopla is complete. Now it’s time to move on to the board.

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@hangloose what are the dims of that Bopla box?
K

Bopla A124
360x120x81

https://www.reichelt.de/de/de/alugehaeuse-360-x-120-x-81-mm-ip66-bopla-a-124-p126154.html?r=1