On one 6384 I removed the rotor and then replaced the shaft with a stainless steel shaft.
On the second motor I also removed the shaft and shortened it.
But turning the shaft should also work if the protruding shaft doesn’t bother you.
I cut mine without removing it. I used a dremel with a small “angle grinder disk” and cut it 0.8mm after the groove for the circlip.
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- Setup: Assist integrated mast
As I still have a 90cm mast left, I’m now going to add a fixed motor pod.
As my favorite mast length is 82cm, I shortened the mast.
My printer has been running for the last few days. All parts are printed and ready to be installed.
I sealed my 3D printed parts with DIAMANT Polymer Sealant. The sealant makes a very good impression. It seals the surface nicely and penetrates the material like oil.
My plug is also ready for installation.
Now all that’s missing is the MastBase and then everything will be finished.
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Kinda surprised you haven’t switched to a different mast like Axis with an adaptor to the slingshot fuse/wings. I did that and the axis mast is so much nicer to run cables in. For efoil I use a 16mm mast and for assist the 19mm mast so I can pump it as well.
I still had the mast from kite foiling.
First of all, I’ll use what I have.
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You cover with the Dichtol the motor mount?
All Parts under water.
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Did something push you to do this, or was it just to do what’s right?
I still had the sealant from another project, so I just wanted to test it and see how it performs in the long term.
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@hangloose, your ESC he Kontronic Jive 120HV+ is from 2016 (?).
Do you think it could be replaced by a 2024 Kolibri 140 LV (329€) replacing the fan by a 3mm passive aluminium sheet cooling ?
Can the ‘slow start’ be removed or attenuated ?
I bought my Jive Pro and Kosmik 200 used.
Yes, the Jive Pro is from 2016.
The Kolibri 140 LV can only run from 2-6S. If so, it should be the 140 HV.
The soft start is only active in helimode. So when the controller moves to a fixed speed.
The modes can be set on the Kontronik controllers with a button.
I also have the ProgUnit for my Kontronik controller. With this you can e.g. change the timing and other settings.
With the Kolibri you would have to remove the fan and heat sink and then continue working with your own aluminum block or heat sink for passive cooling!
I personally find the Kosmik controllers to be the best for eFoil or Assist operation and passive cooling.
They are very easy to install and set up!
See if you can find a used Kosmik in a helicopter forum.
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Today I made the cutout for the Bopla box.
In the next few days we filled and sanded to prepare everything for the laminate.
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Beautiful meticulous work as always, be interested to hear your thinking re poking battery box out the bottom of the board versus poking it out the top of the board. Seems to me that the structural integrity of the board to prevent creasing or fin box displacement is so critical when you are removing the top or bottom layer of the board. Guess the top/deck layer is predominantly in tension and bottom section in front of the mast in compression.
I have a board with the battery box sitting on the deck positioned on centre line and between my feet and it’s surprisingly easy to live with but it’s higher volume than this board. Can imagine a box protruding from the deck would be feasible if it wasn’t crazy high even on a sinker board if you could say cover with deck grip and lie on it.
Also, hard to tell but is that timber or divinycell you have lined the cavity with? Thanks for all the effort sharing your projects 
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The box on the board was annoying, and since my daughter mainly rides the board, we wanted to sink the box.
I thought for a long time about whether to make the cutout from above.
But the board now only has 28 liters and the overhang at the top would be annoying. That’s why I decided to install the box from below, like in my second build.
In my second build, I also thought that the structure and stability would be affected because the box is even bigger and I had to remove more material.
But that’s not the case and the board is very stable and you can’t notice any difference.
The Slingshot board is made of XPS and Styrofoam.
The top layer has a wood veneer.
Here is a picture of the 2nd build that I have already driven for over 30 hours without any problems.
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How thick is the board at the place where you made the cutout?
60mm at the deepest point
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After filling and sanding twice, I am happy with the result.
Everything is now ready for lamination.
Like with my 2nd build I will use 5x 180gr gfk.
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Hope you dont get too many wrinkles, but breether cloth, peel ply and vacuum bag relief folds looks on point 
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