Nice work @Alexander
I´m from germany too, only have ordered Motor/Gearbox actually… so absolute Beginner
Really looking forward to your Remote.
Maybe you are interrested to build some more (-;
Beste Grüße
Jens
That looks great @Alexander! I totally like the simplicity of your throttle trigger. I want to build it and try it.
Couple thoughts:
- I am left handed and hold the remote left. Can we design it so that it works in both hands?
- I had he same issues with these reed sensors, they seem to be very finicky and stop working quickly. Can we use a hall switch instead? It will use some power while off but I assume very little.
- We need to enclose or seal the magnets somehow, they rust quickly in salt water.
- Good idea with the Arduino pro mini, no need for the step up converter board I used.
- I guess at 30h runtime you are not worried about occasionally taking the lid off to charge. Makes it simpler. But if there is room, we could try to fit the wireless charging coil in there.
- I like your callibrarion. I’d like to see that code. That was one thing my test didn’t have.
Can you share your CAD and Arduino code? Code is already share I see, cool. Would love to test it out.
Thanks and Grüße aus LA
-merten
Thanks
Here is A link for the CAD Data : http://a360.co/2AjRfZv
The PCB is custom made with KiCAD - here is a link for the files
https://drive.google.com/open?id=16aH0LpBF3jOMM6M9BQgu1Eb-e871ArKa
But I made a mistake… I had the reed sensor before the “LiOn BMS/charger Board” - so it wouldn’t be possible to charge the battery with this integrated module while the remote is off.
If I use your picture it would look like this:
Very good points, here are my thoughts:
- Left handed: Thats a good point… a elastic spring from the “top” would be usable for both - left and right handed. I’ll try to redesign it the next days. The most critical thing is the length of the elastic magnetholder. To get a good displacement of the magnet without plastic deformation - the free bending length of the magnetholder is important and should be long.
- I’ve never tried a hall switch but sure… as long as it is “behind” the lipo power charger board it should prevent from excessive discharge in case of a long winter.
- Seal the magnets - maybe its enough to use some paint for them.
- wireless charging is a great idea. At first I thought about a waterproof micro USB port but wireless is much better. The only thing is, that the LED’s of the Lipo charger Board are not visible and there is no indication when the charging is completed. I’ll try to integrate the wireless charging coil.
this are the “waterproof” micro USB ports - but I guess waterproof is not the waterproof we need - I ordered some and they are very smal and require very accurate installation and exact counter surfaces.
I also ordered a smal OLED display wich could be glued waterproof in the housing - maybe with a transparent/protective plastic sheet above. Since the RF modules can Communicate in both directions, you could display information directly on the remote (for example Ampere, Battery SOC and other information if the receiver can provide them with a good ESC.)
https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-OLED-Display-SSD1306-128x32-Blau-Turkis-oder-weis-I-C-IIC-Arduino/272901572544?hash=item3f8a3387c0:m:mrQk6KkH2WuSxye3t8TgFNQ
Hope to upload an update in some Days.
Beste Grüße,
Alexander
6 Likes
Very nice Alexander. We use the attached charger plug thingy. Works well. But have not tested it long term (corrosion etc).
Cheers
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Hi ,
Why don’t you try ESP8266 chip like nodemcu or wemos ? It s already wifi or bluetooth .
I plan to use 2 off these, one for the board and the other for the controller.
We can power supply with 5V or 3V, Io work in 3V.
It can be programmed with lua or arduino C language. .
The most common is to use it with easy ESP as few code is needed to do lots of things.
It s really easy to make webserver with esp8266, then you can imagine to access and modify the variables easyly through web interface with a smatphone when on riverbank.
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Proximity metal sensor could be a good alternative to Hall sensor a simple aluminium piece exposed to water would do the job and no rust problem like with magnet.
Some proximity sensors are rated IP69 !
Hi Alexander,
great idea for a remote. I just have a doubt, how are you waterproofing the power-on/off sensor hole. From your cad drawings it doesn’t seem waterproof.
Thanks and keep up the good work.
I’ve fallen in love with Adafruit Feather development boards–
There is a whole family of them: https://adafruit.com/feather
- They range from $20 to $30 USD.
- Almost all of them have a built in Lipo charger and a JST connector.
- Size: about 1" x 2"
- Powered by a single cell LiPo (sold separately)
- 3.3V logic and 3.3V regulator (no 5V option)
- All sorts of different versions, particularly options with:
- bluetooth
- wifi
- radio
…etc…
- Each version usually has two different options to choose from:
- 32u4 micro controllers are for applications that need slightly more current draw, but way less flash space for code.
- M0 micro controllers are for applications that need tons of flash with slightly less current draw per pin.
- Programming and code upload is compatible with Arduino IDE software.
I’ve only dealt with the “Bluefruit” bluetooth versons, with both 32u4 and M0 options, and would highly recommend the M0 versions. I havent dealt with anything other than the bluetooth so I’m not sure how the radio or wifi performs, but I’m sure there’s got to be at least one that you would love for this controller application.
For example, you can probably just grab two Feathers of your choice and have them talk to each other. (again, I’m not sure which version you would choose for this application of wireless communication.)
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Thanks for this info @glydrfreak. A friend just pointed me to the Adafruit Feathers as well and recommended the Adafruit Feather M0 RFM69HCW Packet Radio - 868 or 915 MHz. That frequency might deal better with a little bit of water in between. Tempted to give it a try. Very convenient to have all components integrated… but we will still need a separate voltage step-up converter to 5V for the linear hall sensor I believe.
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https://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/3310P-125-103L/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtC25l1F4XBU4LIzrlRxKBZZHyK4i8bWN4%3D I found a waterproof potentiometer if that is any help.
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Great find, @MaxMaker
I intend to modify an existing esk8 remote and put it inside a 3d printed enclosure, with a Qi loop and small lipo. Probably a Reed switch, NO. Should be easy to waterproof. Then only 3 wires coming out of the enclosure connected to the potentiometer plus a trigger.
No moving parts to seal.
I prefer the reliability of an existing remote versus something I have programmed myself. 
I was thinking that you could also decouple a linear potentiometer from the outside by sliding it up and down with a magnet.
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You don’t need a voltage step-up converter to 5V for the linear hall sensor… I also had the same Issue and the solution was this Hall sensors: start working from 2,7V
I think he will need the voltage converter if he uses any IP67 Rated Hall Effect trigger or rotary device already packaged by a mfg. Most of those devices are rated for 5V.
@frogmangeek a metal analog proximity sensor sounds like a good alternative to the hall effect sensor. Problem is trying to find a good cheaper source. Know any?
Some design modification
I’ll share the STL soon, I need to test this week before
Batterie charge wireless
https://vimeo.com/245685354
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I think that you mean ESP32 as ESP8266 only have wifi. I totally agree with you. You can still use Arduino IDE to program it. And one of the best part is that you can program it over the air (OTA) without have to take the control apart and put in a usb-cable. I´m looking at a BLE solution for the communication between the board and the control and using wifi for diagnostic. you could also use ESPNow-communication between two ESP-units
A ESP32 devboard costs about 5$ and there is also versions with built in OLED-display and 18650-battery.
I have a small usb-powerbank that I will build in and use with a wireless charger. A powerbank includes the bms-chip so I don´t have to deal with that.
you are right , ESP32 is bluetooth, not the case with esp8266, only wifi. ESP now is implemented through esp easy with no need of coding: ESPEasy - Let's Control It
@pacificmeister,Ardunio is new to me aswell, good utube video. I been watching alot of videos of people learning to ride the efoil and it seems like on some that the throttle is very jerky and you can hear the motor revving on and off etc
If the magnet is held in a certain distance position away from the hall effect will the output stay constant so you can get the constant speed for the motor.
Can you adjust the acceleration curve from the code is it easy to do?
We need to experiment with different acceleration/deceleration curves and see what feels best. But ESC input signal is only part of that, I think down the road we want ESCs with current control. I assume my Seaking boat ESC does duty cycle control. With the VESCs in our skateboards we have improved throttle control because of the current control mode, and recently also watt control mode which feels even better.
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