around 6.5 kg… more than a kg is the extra resin the flax was drinking when trying to saturate it…
there’s 200gm flax +200g glass all over with extra patches over the boxes and a carbon tape following the stringer… just because I had a piece leftover…
core is EPS 27kg/m3 if I remember well, with an insert of higher density XPS for the boxes going through to the deck.
Nice one. I’ll post up my home built SUP/Wing beginner board and I’m about to start a new step down. I’m thinking 5’ x 24" wide (I’m 63kg / 139 lbs) unless someone tells me that’s a horrible idea lol.
On my current 6’4" x 28" SUP I can just stand and grab the wing. The crouching start with my front foot flat and my back knee down feels like it’d be easy on a board that size that floated me (4" thick.)
depending on the outline and the rail you give it, it will lowers the volume a lot.
If you build it very boxy like mine, you “loose” 20 to 25% of the volume of the box of same dimensions.
So with your dimension, it gives a box of 94 Liter, so around 70 to 75 liters after shaping. Adding the board & foil weight to your and you also get in that same ballpark number, so you’ll be barely floating. Depending on your skill, it can work, but it’s a bit harder…
To get a more exact number, use a surf design software like boardcad .
I’ve only used boardcad, so I can’t say for others… it’s quite simple to use, and easily print templates…
then, to learn how to shape, YouTube is full of videos, some with more explanations than others.
Greenlight store has also a good guide for the basics: How to Shape, Glass, and Build Your Own Surfboard — Greenlight Surf Co.
Finally for more specifically wing foil boards, best is to look at test videos of a few model and see what aspects are important…
you’ll also need to add fiber over and around the boxes for the mast compare regular fin boxes…
Good luck!
Thx Mat. I use Shape3D to check things sometimes. It’s good to hear your take. I would like to stay at my weight +20l. I was thinking of going thicker and I’ll definitely model that up now to make sure I’m not quite sinking for this one.
On the shape, I’m committed to keeping it super simple. I’ve been hearing that flat bottoms and minimal bevels are cleaner for wing boards so I should be able to keep a lot of the volume. Gunnar Beniach (sp?) and Kane DeWild both are espousing simpler rails and less extreme shapes so I was going to see how far that can go.
As a joke I told friends that I’d be willing to just cut a 45° bevel in the front and glass the block. I was joking but man, the punk in me wants to do it just to troll people who sweat their wing board shapes. I’m not sure we know what works just yet so I don’t trust people who get too attached to complex shapes.
" I’m thinking 5’ x 24" wide (I’m 63kg / 139 lbs) unless someone tells me that’s a horrible idea lol." I built a copy of 5’ sky fanatic, which is 5x24x5.5" thick (well, maybe 23.5" wide after errors). I am 165lb. I think it is roughly 70L. It was a scary moment when I first put knees to it … huge relief, it floats me. Just slightly tippy, but not too bad. It does require a fair amount of wind to get moving comfortably though, not an optimal light wind board, at least not yet.
Ok so that helps. I was going to play around with Shape3D but honestly I’m so bad at it lol.
Check this out. 5’1” x 27.5” x 4.75” and dead simple shape. I love this and the guy says it pops up fast. This is a guy named Rok on a wing surf group on Facebook.
hehe, I have argued elsewhere against tricky design features, now I will show my natural contrariness by arguing for the exact opposite position. Not really. I do have my doubts about benefits of double concaves, etc, but I did put them into my wing board…copying others out there. I figure it’s not unlikely to hurt performance, so may as well try. I do think chines are worthy though … risk of digging in that corner on a good sharp turn. Nose rocker…I am a fun, I have quite flat kite foilboards and I hate the way they plow water on touchdowns. I was surprised that the sky boards have tail rocker…but that’s in keeping with some discussion I’ve heard for preference for a little nose up vs flat, for a natural surfing feel when dropping into waves.
Interesting thing about the 5’ sky board is at nearly 6" thick it has enough volume while only 24" wide…that’s pretty nice for riding performance, vs normal sup widths. A buddy’s board was 5.9x26x3.5 and I could just barely knee start it, so tippy that it was close to unrideable…made me a believer in the thickness.
Simple shape - no bevels - no duck tail (they do suck) - vertical sides (goes better cross wind or even a bit upwind when accelerating on the sea)
Goal: getting on the foil as fast as possible
160cm x 70cm x 9cm - 93 liters
Glued 2 layers of plywood pressed into shape by weights
Added 4 layers of 2cm XPS (doesn’t take water)
2 layers of glass fabric 160g/m2 + epoxy - plywood: only epoxy.
Still need to add the deck pad.
Hardly any shaping: just a bit nose rocker and rounding the edges
Weight 9.1kgs