@mickeyt What great work, thanks for sharing this information. Can you send the webpage link to the firmware update? Also what are the two pieces of equipment your using to update the firmware? Im not familiar with the long blue electronic device or what is attached to.
@wushbush the device is a USB-serial converter and the long blue thing is just a 4-pin probe.
The USB-serial converter is “TTL” (or 5V logic level). You can get these for around $15 online. I’d encourage getting a genuine one, as the FTDI knock-offs can have some other issues associated with them.
The 4-pin probe is just hand made, it’s just a convenient way to connect the pins from the serial converter to they erayfoil RC receiver, and hold them in place while the firmware is upgraded. You could solder the wires directly, and then remove them afterwards.
Connections are as follows:
- Serial converter “Ground” → RC Receiver “Ground”
- Serial converter “5V” → RC Receiver “V”
- Serial converter “Tx” → RC Receiver “Rx”
- Serial converter “Rx” → RC Receiver “Tx”
I’m not sure if the firmware update tool is available on their website - the manufacturer sent it to me directly. But I can try to send that to you now directly.
1 Like
thnaks for your positive feedback on efoil that make us to Improve the firmware of our RC remote.
I have update the firmware update tool with Instruction below link.
we will make sure the new order will update to this 50Hz firmware.
I also make video for beginner to use the Efoil Remote
4 Likes
Hi Franky,
I’ve tried to update my receiver board as described - does this have to be connected to a current, i.e. an esc?
Mike
Hi guys, I just got the ErayFoil remote control. Good quality in general, I have yet to try it in the water.
There are two LED lights on the receiver board: a blue one indicates signal reception and turns on as soon as the handpiece is turned on. The second, red, lights up as soon as the trigger is pulled and the engine starts to spin.
To control the cooling pump you can use these two signals, driving a relay with an NPN transistor or a small mosfet. If you take the signal from the blue LED, the pump will start working when the transmitter handpiece is turned on, vice versa, if it is connected to the red LED, the pump will start working as soon as the motor is turned on.
1 Like
How waterproof are these erayfoil remotes working out, when used in saltwater for an extended time?
The remote control is fully glued, waterproof and reliable, and has no problem soaking in seawater all the time
+1 I am using it in salt water out of box. Didn’t have problems… Nice and simple remote.
3 Likes
I used it right away. I didn’t do anything and it works perfectly!
I just received one of these remotes and am trying to set it up with a Flipsky 75200 VESC. It looks like the receiver for the remote puts out PWM and the VESC is wanting PPM. I am thinking I need to make or buy a PWM to PPM converter. Is the best way to do this with a small Arduino board? I am new to the RC controller stuff, and it looks like the benefit of PPM is that it handles multiple signals over one wire. The PWM remote only kicks out one signal. This is probably a dumb question, but I can’t just send that one signal line through to the PPM on the VESC, right? I assume the protocol they use for the pulses is different.
You only have to attach the three wires to your VESC, Ground, Positive and the PWM. Look at the pictures above. You do not need to convert any signals. @hivebrain
1 Like
Don’t look to much on The ppm naming on The vesc port. You would get problem if you trying to connect a ppm signal to a vesc, so you want to have a PWM remote as you have 
Just connect it and select ppm in vesc tool and do The calibration and it Will work:)
1 Like
That’s awesome. Thanks!
Is the battery monitor connection necessary for the receiver send input to the VESC? I have been having a hard time getting the receiver to show throttle in the VESC software, and I am thinking maybe it doesn’t send output when it thinks the LiPo battery is dead. Seems unlikely, but I am running out of other explanations.
I think you are right.
Also wanted to test it but didn’t work if the battery + was not connected to that pin.
Thanks! I’ll try that.
This question was raised earlier on the thread, but I just want to make sure I understand correctly. Are we supposed to tap into the + output before it goes into the VESC and then solder a 10AWG wire directly to the receiver board? Should I try to splice on a smaller wire before I run it to the board?
I soldered a small signal wire to it.
Just added a wire to the positive output and it unfortunately didn’t fix the problem. There are two LEDs on the receiver board and only one of them lights up. From watching YouTube videos it looks like a second red light is supposed to come on when throttle is applied. That other light doesn’t come on.