for your Naish mast there might already exist a file online, here or on thingiverse maybe.
Someone on this forum scanned his own mast with a smartphone and created a profile on his computer. There are tutorials on youtube I asssume.
I personally used a simple picture of my mast ( cross cut at the top) converted it to a svg, and on tinkercad created a negative stl, to make a pod.
wiring of the system is straightforward in the case of a regular Esc.
Motor to esc ( 3 wires)
Batt+ to fuse to Esc+
Batt- to ESC-
Esc has one or two “servo cables” that go to the radio receptor ( channel 1 or 2 )
Water tube from pod to ESC trough box. Water tube from esc to esc again ( in the box )
Water tube exit esc and go through box, to the front part, so you can check water flow without looking down.
Here is my cleaned up build.
I would say it’s hafway between an efoil and an assist.
Water cooling and 10s4p.
I cleaned it up and tried it this morning on a gong inflatable 5’5.
It works amazingly well as an efoil so far.
I will try again with my former smaller box and 6s when i get better and when waves show up.
I feel like Emmett Brown : I finally invent something that works!
I have almost the same setup with gong first 5.5, working perfecty well,
Big difference is the motor, 65161 motor.
My second build is under way with 63100 motor, a foild drive assist for waves, I hope 6S will be enough.
Which ESC are you using ?
Hello…
Great build, i have a friend who did siilar build with same board and box on the back.
Btw do you have files for printing that folding propeller?
so i want to swith to smaller surf foil board ( gong lethal ) that has no straps and no inserts, how did you end up securing your box to your board ?
cheers
alex
I have the same issue with gong hipe fisrt (no strap inserts), the best solution I’ve found is to use a strap, pierced at the level of the two rear screws of the base (so that it holds well and that it does not go away), and it avoids the drag well (a badly placed strap creates a crazy drag)
Footstrap inserts: obviously the great forgotten asset on the Gong Hipe First.
A pity because the Hipe V1 et V2 had them stuck under the deck mat and they cost nothing
Bravo pour ce travail ça à l’air de super bien fonctionner.
Je suis en train de regarder ce qui se fait et franchement ton projet semble le plus simple à mettre en place. Pour quelqu’un comme moi qui n’y connait rien, ça le fait !
Tu parlais de mettre à disposition la nomenclature et les liens, je suis effectivement intéressé. Merci à toi et encore bravo !
Very clever to dig holes in the strap ! I never thought about it.
I am looking forward to trying, maybe tommorow.
Guys, with a friend making hiw own unit i discovered something : if you remove the circlip at the end of the motor axis, you can remove the entire magnet bell of an outrunner with only one hand whenever you want. It make cleaning, and spraying with wd40 the inside of the motor incredibly easy each time.!
It is not needed in operation
well the propeller pushes towards the mast, and the force needed to remove the bell is unlikely to be applied by water on the propeller I think. ( maybe if you catch a wire or something while travelling )
so far I had had no troubles, I hope i will not have to comeback to say you were right and I lost everything at sea
One question more question: does one need to use the water cooling? I was thinking of getting this kit. Would it work and what size batteries would I need?
hi
so yes you need watercooling in my opinion, because i tried without, and it overheats FAST. but it is really easy, one tube from motor pod to the box, alongside the motor wires, and boom voilà it is done.
the kit seems a bit overkill, I don’t know i chose a much simpler path myself, with less expensive motor and ESC.
that remote is not very good. I had one at first and it died quickly. a friend recently got one, and the motor response is to non linear for our taste, same as mine was.
I now use a RC car remote in a dry bag from decathlon(SPARKLE v2.0 GT2B ESK8 ENCLOSURE MOD BY OKP by okplay3r - Thingiverse)
for batteries I made two 6s packs with repurposed 21700 elements from NKON with my friend’s help. it is not “easy”
apparently big 6S lipos work, but might be more dangerous.
i use this box from amazon, but it is a bit too big
I did that for the same reason, now my bell incl prop is on the ground of the lake. belive it or not, you should put the ring in place. the backwards force the prop generate when hitting the water on reentry is big enough to pull the whole thing apart.
bonne aventure, c est top comme projet, quelle fierté quand ca marche (forcément quelques échecs dans l’aventure, mais ca a fini par super bien marcher)
I’m building my second efoil (foil drive assist) with a 63100 custom motor from APS (waterproofed by APS), two tries now with my classig big efoil case with 12s 20 A, working well, not so easy when you put the motor high on the mast.
Which vesc configuration do you use ? (max current for your motor ? it seems to be a 6384 ?)
I’m building a new case for foil drive assist, supposed to be in 6S, but not sure if it will be powerfull enough or not, do you know if 6S can work to fly and the take some waves ?
