not water proof. but if your design has them outside of the gasket…
Would you have a link to these?
The threaded length can vary from 10 to 50mm. Mountain bikes wheel shafts are longer but not usually SS
https://www.kippusa.com/us/en/Products/ … 4&scaam=4
Here the prices are insane
https://www.amazon.com/Kipp-04232-21200 … 896&sr=8-5
Yep, bit steep 
I tried a few bike seat post cam levers, but found the cam action a bit shallow.
I’m going to try the Smooth On 30 silicone, and see if I can make it water tight using that. It’s all trial and error since we are DIYers… 
All my seals are smooth on mold star 30. My current built hatch seals so well that I could not close it without some kind of vent. Positive air pressure!
It vents through the thumb screw point when not tightened now.
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Cool! Did you poor this in a mold outside of the board, or did you make some frame and poured it directly into the board? Does this stuff level nicely as well or needs some work afterwards?
I just spend 70 euro on rubbers for a new board and not sure if it will work. Looking this stuff up online and I see it costs only 40 euro for 1 kg…
When I close the hatch there is a 4-5mm gap between the hatch and the board.
I could use a temporary foam tape seal between the board and hatch on the inside of the seal, and then you can just pour the silicone in pace.
I do have a taper on the edge of the hatch so it opens without too much force. Im really happy with it. I took it out in head high surf to test it and not 1 drop of water!
A couple of things to watch out for. 1. you need to make sure the foam tape or anything you use to form the silicone doesnt contain sulpher, otherwise it will retard the cure of the silicone. If in doubt test it first. 2. It pays to vacuum the silicone in a vacuum chamber to remove air bubbles caused when mixing. They tend to present on the surface. It wont ruin the seal but just doesnt look as good. vacuum if you can.
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Michion,
I am at the stage where I will be trying to perfect my sealing. It I fail with my current approach I will be trying you method.
Thanks!
I don’t have a vac chamber, but will look into this.
Some of you guys have asked about how to make the folding prop fit the 65161 motor. I posted measurements awhile back in another thread. Here’s the link. As you can see in the post above it works. Sean successfully did this mod.
Ha, thats funny. I almost have the same construction. Using the 100KV maytech motor with a originally 7,5 x 8 inch prop turned down to 150mm. I wanted to have more pitch than whats typically available. Printed duct and similar attachment to the mast with water inlet at the tip. Running the GONG XL wing currently because I didn’t read some of you guys posts in time. Will move to the M Pro Wing as soon as possible. 14p14s Booant Battery. 130L Board and 300A Maytech controller. Second board will be smaller and with more reasonably priced controller.
Cheers
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From where you got your VESC Aluhousing?
Hi.
This box fits the flier 400a red boat ESC with some trimming of the cooling pipes. You can find it cheaper. The two boxes were about the same price.
This box fit my 75/300 VESC. But, caution! I had to grind the heatsink on the VESC down, and round the corners! Look at my build pics I posted.
Just go with the bigger box for the 75/300 VESC I suggest. Here is side by side pictures
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I took my dog for a ride. 
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He looks so relaxed. I have a 80kg Great Dane that is keen for a ride. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s going to happen.
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Great Engeneering congrats!
I am a surf foil rider and want to learn down wind surf.
I would like to buy the lift e-foil with folding prop and 250 FW for this purpose.
Do you think it will work for praticing in reading open ocean wind swell and be able to to downwind in regular sup foil later?
Are you doing downwind with your efoil?
I am based in Hong Konk, where are you based?
Thank you
Maxence
What did you make the lid out of?
I used XPS foam (Insulation Sheathing) sandwiched with a few layers Carbon Fiber on each side.
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