The key to zero thrust is finesse. It’s constantly changing as your speed changes. But, yes. This works. However, it’s not the same as a folding prop. With a folding prop you don’t have to concentrate on the trigger. You just forget about the motor and that allows / forces you to ride the wave, pump the foil, actually make the wave propel you. I never had that feeling when concentrating on the throttle and the zero thrust technique.
they are very close tolerance. I keep them coated with silicone grease. The way the plastic plug mates with the other half, a thin film of silicone creates a waterproof seal. Then you have to seal the back of the plug where the wires connect. Unlike other plug types, the water cannot get through from the back side (wire side). So, I just did several coats of Conformal coating on the solder connection and the wire, and wire insulation end to prevent water from going up the wire, or corroding the copper, or solder connection. This also prevents the voltage to making connection with water. You can test this with a voltmeter.
For the motor wires I use these:
The silicone grease also seals these perfectly. On the back of the plug on these however, you need to seal them or the water will penetrate into the contact side. To do that I solder, then Conformal coat, then seal with butyl rubber, and heat shrink over. Works like a charm!
Hi, he using sonar or which type of sensor?
Where are speed sensors for airplanes, but I’m not sure if they waterproof - I didn’t use it due price People using them on high over 1000m, where high humidity so possible that they could be used on our application.
I’m using flow water sensor on the end of ESC to detect if waterflow stopped for cooling ESC…
I very inspired by @maxime_ecn build so If you using something like this
I think you are able to put water flow sensor in tube and detect water flow speed
Did some playing around in the small waves in Nawiliwili last week. The new SUP size board takes some getting used to, but it actually feels small and agile. I think I’m really gonna like it. I used the folding prop on this ride.
For people looking for latches. I purchased these GEM latches from ebay, to replace my Chinese latches. These work great. I had an issue with water leaking through the center shaft on my old latches. These don’t have that issue and work great!!!
Update!!! Added some pics. With the ebay Gem latches, included are the short backing plate. Gemlux website offers other backing plates if needed. You will notice I had to cut mine in half. Reason being is that I didn’t make my compartment very large and it was hitting the battery when closing. I could have just moved the latches more aft, but that would require moving locking plate/tab. There isn’t much force need when opening the lid. I also made a few plastic spacers to fill the gap between the lid and backing plate, just incase anyone ask. The locking tabs inside the board, you can just use a piece of plexiglass or in my case I just made a epoxy resin block and sanded it down.
Can you show the inside of it of the lid and the locking receiving end in the compartment? I believe the locking part that would be located in the board does not come with that offer on eBay correct?
How did you end up doing the finish coat on the SUP efoil? It looks like carbon, then paint, then clear coat?
How is that finish coat holding up in comparison to the Lift board?
I know you are an active user and often hit things, so I’m curious how the finish looks on the Lift after so many hours vs. whatever you used on the SUP in comparison.
The Lift board just seems to be a single stage paint. The paint is adhered pretty good on the Lift board but it scratches and chips off pretty easy. But, I’m not too concerned about cosmetics. I think it looks cool with chips in the paint and the black carbon showing through.
My DIY board is Carbon with a layer of S-glass over it for impact strength. As you know Carbon is strong, but easily cracks if impacted due to its rigid nature. It’s heavier than it needed to be, but I launch from the boat, and needed the board to be able to handle impacts.
The board finish was then smoothed out with epoxy and micro balloon filler, sanded, painted, and clear coated. I think my friend said the paint was actually gelcoat. Then clear coated over.
Greeting Flightjunkie
I used these anti spark connectors for my board due to a pop noise/spark when connecting my battery,no more pop, testing today. Your thoughts on longevity and safety?
Hi guys. I stuck my phone in my board today and attempted to data log for the first time.
I’m terrible with VESC. Trying to learn and get better…
I have an Android phone, and a PC. Looks like my phone logged the file as a (.csv) file. Is there anyway to view this data on the Android phone after recording it? I was able to view on the data on my PC, but I’m unclear on how to best do so.
It was just a short ride today. I’d like to figure out this VESC logging thing. And how to save and share my VESC settings. I just fumbled around with the VESC settings untill it worked. I’m sure there is lots of room for improvement.
Any advice from you guys with VESC experience would be appreciated. I’d like to provide useful data for the community. I have a 65161 motor, and the FR motor and the 3 blade FR prop and a 2 blade folding prop, and I’d like to print some props to play around with.
If there is any interest, and I can figure this out I’d like to do some side by side comparisons.
Metr or the new iLog is for sure most convenient. My logs are all done by metr. As you already figured out for vesc log there is some manual effort needed. I have never used it, sorry bruh
People using them on high over 1000m, where high humidity so possible that they could be used on our application.
