Fliteboard prop alternative to FR?

Until you change that setting😊
Actually you should reserve 10% for yourswlf so that you can still accelerate when going fast if something throws you off balance.
I always fall when doing 100% since theres nothing more to give when foil starts loosing lift or theres a wave or so.

This was the main reason I made a 16s battery. Will do a 120kv board this year instead…

Do you think that 100 kv is better suited for flite prop than 120 kv?
I already have flite prop but am still not sure whether to take 100 kv or 120 kv motor.
I plan to make 14s battery.

On 14s with 120kv this prop will be very fast. I will try it on my 120kv in a couple of days, but all my data is for 12s. I have no 14s capabilities

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This is looking good! When the bike build and CNC build are finished I can then get back to the efoils!
I grabbed a duct too so that I can use it for friends that are new to efoiling and can avoid prop issues…

I think the TI DRV (12S max limit) that many VESC use can pop on higher duty cycles. No idea on the with the 14-16S capable VESCs… apparently it has been working for you :smiley: On a skateboard having the VESC error out or the DRV pop would result in a much harder impact compared to efoiling!


Aargh, the chuck on our lathe is not big enough :frowning:

Vesc 75300 doesnt use the drv chip.

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May I ask what is wrong with this lathe ? The one I have in mind is similar …

I meant that it is not long enough to get a grip on the base of the prop, and I didnt find any equipment to extend it. If there is a way to secure the prop in the lathe in that direction without cutting a flat section first, then please let me know.
I will be able to borrow a different and bigger lathe from the company next door after the holiday, but my plan was to do some foiling during the holiday. I guess i have to do with a printed prop for now.

I think my turning machine guy drilled like a cone /fixture particular for this prop before. If you want I can ask him for details

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With a lathe present it must be easy to make a ‘drill-adapter’ for this prop. I suggest to take a piece of aluminium round stock (OD: 30-50mm) and reduce one side to make a short pin that fits the current hole size of the FB prop. In this way the prop is centered in the lathe. With some CA glue you can fix the prop hub to the rest of the aluminium in the chuck. Then drill and ream to 12H7 size to fit the flipsky shaft.

Without a lathe I used a drillpress with drills 10.5, 11, 11.5 and a conical reamer to 12H7. With small steps the prop will remain centric as well

Yes thats the way to do… Really start to like the Fliteboard prop more than the FR now… Anyone got the new Flitebaord2 prop with free wheeling already? Possible to adapt on 65162 shaft?

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Anyone else tested the manta prop? I don’t know if it is worth the effort to make an adapter for drilling this prop, time is money…

@YAHEF
Were you using a fairing/space between the motor body and the prop? If the power consumption is similar to the FR prop, but with more low end grip, then it seems a good choice for a tow boogie.

I think manta prop fits on maytech without drilling :sweat_smile:

It does fit both fr and maytech yes

Confirmed Manta prop fits the FR motor and Flipsky as-is.

FR w Manta prop


Flipsky w Manta prop

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Used the flipsky hub here (Efoil V3 - STL files for Gong foil and Flipsky motor 12mm - Parts list - Schematics - #121 by SoEFoil) for a perfect fit with just a hairline between the prop and hub. You’ll also need an M8 nut and a prop pin which I cut from a stainless steel nail.

Cheaper than Fliteboard prop with shipping to USA.
Manta: $70 prop + $35 shipping = $105
Fliteboard: $45 prop + $90 shipping = $135

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And… It’s carbon fiber filled injection… manta prop sound and is stiff like metal prop without the corrosion issues of aluminum ones.

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Went all in and finalized my Flitecopy build. Man it was tougher than I thought, suddenly bying it at 5k€ is actually an option. Will couple it with my 16s setup and the Trampa 75/300. Hoping this will take me past the 50kmh limit.
Even if I created this thread and still firmly believe that the flite-prop is the best bang for the buck there is I’m comntemplating to fit the kit with either the 6 or 7" FR for it’s maiden voyage. What do you guys think? Is it a must to use Flite-prop on the flite-copy steup?

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Beautifully done !
bets are opened : my guess : FR -7