Fliteboard prop alternative to FR?

Confirmed Manta prop fits the FR motor and Flipsky as-is.

FR w Manta prop


Flipsky w Manta prop

Used the flipsky hub here (Efoil V3 - STL files for Gong foil and Flipsky motor 12mm - Parts list - Schematics - #121 by SoEFoil) for a perfect fit with just a hairline between the prop and hub. You’ll also need an M8 nut and a prop pin which I cut from a stainless steel nail.

Cheaper than Fliteboard prop with shipping to USA.
Manta: $70 prop + $35 shipping = $105
Fliteboard: $45 prop + $90 shipping = $135

And… It’s carbon fiber filled injection… manta prop sound and is stiff like metal prop without the corrosion issues of aluminum ones.

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Went all in and finalized my Flitecopy build. Man it was tougher than I thought, suddenly bying it at 5k€ is actually an option. Will couple it with my 16s setup and the Trampa 75/300. Hoping this will take me past the 50kmh limit.
Even if I created this thread and still firmly believe that the flite-prop is the best bang for the buck there is I’m comntemplating to fit the kit with either the 6 or 7" FR for it’s maiden voyage. What do you guys think? Is it a must to use Flite-prop on the flite-copy steup?

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Beautifully done !
bets are opened : my guess : FR -7

Good guess @Alexandre went with FR-7, 120kv flipsky, but only 14s battery today.
The setup is just magical. I thought having the frontwing in plane with propulsion was marketing from Flite, but it does really improve stability. Rig is super stable starting at 30kmh. I’m 105kgs on a 800cm2 front-wing so this is not bad.
Anyways since it’s still 7* waters and there was 50cm waves, I chickened out at 45kmh, but this was far from current or DC limit.

If you get the chance to build a flite replica go for it! There is nothing like it in stability/agility/speed.


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If you dare to ride along FPV :slight_smile:
Had one 40km/h+ fall and it’s starting to hurt…

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wow, heavy wipeout…
but at 30km/h your pulling quite a lot power… I ride with about 1800W at 30km/h with 80kg…on flipsky…and flite prop…so you use about 1000W more on FR 7"?

80kg total weight? Or just the rider?

Big diff upwind/downwind. Not so easy for you to know, but you need to look in both directions. This is absolutely not my most efficient setup. Its a 800sqcm wing for 135kg total weight! But it was a very unique experience compared to gong Veloce, RL, Naish, Unifoil hyper setups that i all ready have.

14s x 4,2v x 0.97 x 41,2A = 2300w for 30km/h

62Wh/km x 30km/h = 1860w

Yep, I guess you are both right, but the momentary consumption is not fully correct and also I have about 3v @40A. I would say 2,0kW to make it even.
I have the exact same @30kmh when I ride my Unifoil Hyper 190, which is a super efficient foil.
That one I can ride with 22A @24kmh thought.
All about which speed and how fat you are that plays in most :slight_smile:
Secondly how high you ride, with 19mm mast it needs to divide some water, this seems to play bigger role in higher speed…

More logs here:

Flite7", FR6", FR7" and Prototype 7"

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Anyone tried to mount the flite duct to a flipsky motor?

I’ve come to the conclusion that it won’t fit!.. without some major modification.


In this picture you can see the blades touching the duct beams and it still has about 15mm to go down the shaft.
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This is how much needs to be cut off to make it work.

I’m also about to mount the Flite duct to a Flipsky motor and came to the same conclusion. My plan is to extend the back of the propeller with a 3D printed part, filled with epoxy.

Oh, do you believe it will be stable enough and centered?

I was thinking about milling out the motor diameter on the duct and reinforce that part with eooxy.

But it would definitely be Easier to replace a broken part without the need of modification, with your solution.

Did this on another prop and it worked quite well. The prop itself was not good but the extension worked. You have to make sure it’s still balanced though.

If the shaft is long enough you could also 3d print an adapter to fill the gap and drill an extra hole for the shear pin in the shaft. This way, the extra material is not rotating. Otherwise drop the duct and print an adapter only, that should work.