Did you try max duty? I usually don’t care about consumption 
Ehm yes i do occasionally, but my favourite 1100cm2 wing only does 41kmh before wing cavitation and drastic loss of lift. Im usually close to 100% duty on 14s and about 90A when that happens. Somewhat lower DC when doing 16s
Check log below.
I focus on efficiency as i want to have 25km sessions and hate to carry heavy batteries.
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How do you reach 100% duty cycle? Don’t you use a vesc?
Yes, set max duty to 99,9%. Am I missing something?
You also need to set current limit to allow for it of course…
I always thought like 5% is reserved for things that I am not sure of
Until you change that setting😊
Actually you should reserve 10% for yourswlf so that you can still accelerate when going fast if something throws you off balance.
I always fall when doing 100% since theres nothing more to give when foil starts loosing lift or theres a wave or so.
This was the main reason I made a 16s battery. Will do a 120kv board this year instead…
Do you think that 100 kv is better suited for flite prop than 120 kv?
I already have flite prop but am still not sure whether to take 100 kv or 120 kv motor.
I plan to make 14s battery.
On 14s with 120kv this prop will be very fast. I will try it on my 120kv in a couple of days, but all my data is for 12s. I have no 14s capabilities
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This is looking good! When the bike build and CNC build are finished I can then get back to the efoils!
I grabbed a duct too so that I can use it for friends that are new to efoiling and can avoid prop issues…
I think the TI DRV (12S max limit) that many VESC use can pop on higher duty cycles. No idea on the with the 14-16S capable VESCs… apparently it has been working for you 
On a skateboard having the VESC error out or the DRV pop would result in a much harder impact compared to efoiling!
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May I ask what is wrong with this lathe ? The one I have in mind is similar …
I meant that it is not long enough to get a grip on the base of the prop, and I didnt find any equipment to extend it. If there is a way to secure the prop in the lathe in that direction without cutting a flat section first, then please let me know.
I will be able to borrow a different and bigger lathe from the company next door after the holiday, but my plan was to do some foiling during the holiday. I guess i have to do with a printed prop for now.
I think my turning machine guy drilled like a cone /fixture particular for this prop before. If you want I can ask him for details
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With a lathe present it must be easy to make a ‘drill-adapter’ for this prop. I suggest to take a piece of aluminium round stock (OD: 30-50mm) and reduce one side to make a short pin that fits the current hole size of the FB prop. In this way the prop is centered in the lathe. With some CA glue you can fix the prop hub to the rest of the aluminium in the chuck. Then drill and ream to 12H7 size to fit the flipsky shaft.
Without a lathe I used a drillpress with drills 10.5, 11, 11.5 and a conical reamer to 12H7. With small steps the prop will remain centric as well
Yes thats the way to do… Really start to like the Fliteboard prop more than the FR now… Anyone got the new Flitebaord2 prop with free wheeling already? Possible to adapt on 65162 shaft?
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Anyone else tested the manta prop? I don’t know if it is worth the effort to make an adapter for drilling this prop, time is money…
@YAHEF
Were you using a fairing/space between the motor body and the prop? If the power consumption is similar to the FR prop, but with more low end grip, then it seems a good choice for a tow boogie.
It does fit both fr and maytech yes