Coupling a 16s8p(?) Li-Ion battery with a 5Ah Lipo sounds interesting. How does it work?
I was thinking more measuring it 
Many way to do that , didn’t find the one I used Last time on first FR prop but this one seems good :
Great news! Thought DeepVee was faking their inventory as they have a lot of spares in stock.
Bad part, they don’t ship to Sweden, at least not from the web shop.
Well it’s not that complicated, but it’s not a very nice solution.
So I just use 2x5S+2x3S Lipo’s in series and then connect them in parallel with the 16s8p LiION battery pack.
There is signifacantly less voltage drop under load doing this. The LiION alone drops 6v when pulling 60A. Yes after this I can not recommend using the 50E for efoils. Ive also made 14s batteries using p42A:s and there is a huge diff with “high current” batteries as these only dip ca 2v.
However if adding Lipo you need to make sure to have the exact same voltage when connecting the 2 parallel. Also you can not really use the last 10% of LiION capacity as you need to stop discharge at about 3,4v due to Lipo chemistry properties.
In light of recent Waydoo battery incidents I think I will slow down the battery experiments and also share the design I’m using for group assessment. Efoiling is really cool, but safety of family comes first.
Does anyone know that pitch of that Fliteboard prop already? Is it 150mm diameter?
They are 150mm diameter and fit FR and maytech motors shafts
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Nice Fliteboard spare part catalogue from the south of France:
https://www.custommotorsfrance.com/product-category/pieces-detachees/ VAT included (multiply by 0.8 for export outside EU - UK since Brexit: no idea)
At 480€ for a waterproof plug and play ESC, it seems we can reuse the ESC with Amphenol connectors too. Does anybody know what the function of the 3rd cable is ?
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It plugs into the battery box.
The third cable is to connect the receiver which sits in the front of the board. They call it the data receiver and it has 8 pins.
It would be quite easy to design a custom plate to put this on any mast and then connect it to a fliteboard board.
… and open a Fliteboard battery first ?
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If i measure right, and use above formula it would mean pitch 235mm
So 36mm (blade height) x360° / 55°(bladeangle of the measured height…= 235mm
At 148mm diameter (scope 464mm) this means, ptich ratio of 0,5
What does FR mean by telling pitch 6 ? that means a 360° turn of prop means 6= 152mm forward movement?
So this would mean FR ((150mm 6´) has pitch ratio 0,32
Is this correct?
No FR is 6" diameter and 6" pitch so 1:1, which is normally the lowest you would go on planing boats without loosing to much efficiency in “water friction”.
There are several schools of how to measure pitch. The simple old school one is how far does the water travel at 70% of the radius (or diameter) during 1 revolution.
ok but then this would mean Fliteboard prop has much bigger pitch ratio of 235/148mm= 1,6
That would mean they loose a lot efficiency??? 
confused
No racing props for fast boats normally go up to almost 2,0.
Would say 1,4-1,6 is sweetspot just based on the most common fast boat props.
ok did anyone test this Fliteboard high pitch prop on direct drive motor so far?
I have ordered one and can provide comparison to FR prop soon. For mounting I need to adapt the prop, stay tuned.
Cheers
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Yes , higher pitch probably to limit stress on the gearbox , I don’t think efficiency suffer a lot with a high pitch prop at a lower rpm
So around 9’’ … like the first FR prop , I got 36km/h with 3000rpm with a v100 takuma and 130kg at the time
But the blade area looks larger …
My setup geared was around 100kv and I was running on 8s , with around 9nm ( calculated)
So on 12s/14s direct drive , my guess : not the best set up to get watts , more amp motor at a lower voltage motor for sure