incremental reamers, it took a set of 3 adjustable hand reamers to enlarge the hole to 12mm.
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I went to my workshop to find material for the pin adapter and here is what i found:a piece of stainles steel threaded rod an two female bolts (probably leftovers from ikea cabinet)
Havent try it yet. But it took me 10 minutes to make. Just with hand tools.
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Curious about if you have tried the prop yet and what your impressions are??
Hi foilguy. I had planed to test it today, but i found an issue with my motor holder. So I am printing new parts. I hope i will test it next week and let you know
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So yesterday I was testing a new prop at a nearby lake and the result is controversial. I must say I am a total beginner and I have never foil before. In the beginning, I reached critical speed and the board started flying, which is a huge success for me, The board raised higher and higher. I was startled so I release the trigger and felt down. I repeat the same scenario once again, but then, after 5-10 minutes of struggling, I couldn’t get the board out of the water. So the conclusion is The flite prob is great. It definitely helped me a lot. But I am still not happy. Maybe The rifle case efoil is not good for beginners. or maybe I should just keep on trying and improve my skills… I do not know.
I use the flight prop with 65161 at 12s. It is like starting in a vehicle in 2nd gear compared to the flipsky prop that came with the W7 kit even after chopping to 140mm OD.
The flight is much smoother and very efficient once on foil but I can see struggling to aquaplane on a riflecase. I need H mode to get goping whereas on the original M was better. Witht he flight prop I can get over 40kmh and foil at 25kmh with 30amps on my 1250cm2 wingand I weigh 210lbs.
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What do you mean by “H” mode?
I thought I invented that launch, scream and slam trick 
What you are describing is exactly what I started out doing, I also thought I was at “critical speed” for flight - I wasn’t.
I discovered with help that I needed to go substantially faster while board is in contact with the water BEFORE trying to fly.
Weight distribution is critical so experiment where you need to be on top of board to allow you to get up to speed but stay on the water surface.
Get up to speed and shift a tiny bit of weight rearward and the board climbs up, shift back to neutral position and it will level off. Sounds easy but it takes patience and practice.
Go out for a session and don’t even try to fly, just zoom around like a boat.
The flipsky remote vx3 has L, M and H modes. H for high etc.
You could add a foldable and removable 45-60 degree bevel to the bow.
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My solution to drilling out the bore of the flite prop to accept a 12mm shaft of the 65161. The 3d print keeps the drill and prop aligned. All you need is a 12mm drill bit, a battery drill and the print. Iv tested it in the water and it seems perfectly balanced. Mark the drill at 110mm and proceed slowly with the drill.
https://www.printables.com/model/583026-flite-prop-drill-guide
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Why is it so difficult? I just drilled a 5mm hole in the shaft, 2 minutes of work and it fit perfectly!
Shaft is 11mm diameter from aluminium, that’s why I prefer a smaler hole than 5mm. No problem with a steel shaft. It might be a bit overengineered but it last for three seasons so far.
My pin sits in the shaft, I can‘t loose it.
The Flipsky 65161 motor has a steel shaft. Do you have a different motor?
Yes, 63100 with flanged shaft, as the original shaft of this outrunner was on the wrong side for our application. Cut the original shaft and made one from aluminium, see here: Daniels (un)geared inflatable (slowly built) - #55 by sat_be
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Shaft of the outrunners can be pushed to either side you want it, you can mark and make a new circlip recess with a dremel grinding disc quite ok, i’ve done this on a few motors.
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Yes but this still leaves you with a 10mm shaft, ok if you print your own props, bad for commercial efoil props with a 12mm hole.
You’re right. I thought about trying a shaft sleeve of 12x1mm for my motor, even found some on ebay but didn’t order. I 3D-printed an endcap with 4 screw holes and a recess for a standard M12 bolt instead. 5min solution that still works 
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Thank you so much! I just used your 3D model, and it works perfect.
I made it hollow to save polymer. First one was too small, and I printed another one a little bigger.
Old thread I know but it took all of maybe 1min to center the shaft of a 65161 and enlarge the hole to 5mm for the pin. Same with the prop, sit it flush on the press then drill with a 12mm bit making sure not to drill all the way through.
On a side note anyone have a prop guard for the flite prop and 65161?
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