Foil Drive Assist, DIY

What charger/setup is everyone using? BMS in the battery pack, external, no BMS/ISDT charger? thank you!

This is the one I use for the 8s3p pack. I also use a cheap Daly BMS, but only for charging.

33.6V 5A Lithium Li-ion Battery Charger For 8S Li-po Battery E-baike
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOGRJGq

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building my quiver, 8S and 12S too.



two 6S2P pack in series on the plan which will give me 12S2P

and another 8S3P pack almost done.

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I have a Gong mast (monocoque old version) that I would like to try with this pod. Since I don’t have CAD skills to even modify “complex” shapes I rely on you skilled guys :grinning:

I first printed a quick 10% infill of Strongarms original, with the Armstrong profile, which doesn suit Gong at all. I also noticed the section behind mast was quite thin, and from previous experience with another “sturdier” mount, the starting torque of the motor broke this part (I changed to 100% infill in the rear which sorted it out). so it might be a good idea to ad a couple mm rearwards to make it solid. Looking at your version with cable guide looks even more fragile because of the cutout, but hard to say. Or maybe I’m wrong…

I dont need the cable guide, so I would appreciate if you can make an STL without it, ie just original with Gong profile? :pray:

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You are doing a nice build there.
Would you mind to open a topic for it? It will be usefull for you and everybody.
You can then reference it here…

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The FlyColor X-Cross 160A as a cross ref:
'Alternative ESC with BLHeli32 Firmware 12S 160A

Flycolor has a new watercooled ESC reference: the KRAKEN tailored for RC marine racing use, with an optionnal WIFI module.
http://www.flycolor.net/index.php?c=category&id=215
Limited to 12s, the price is much higher than the X-CROSS:
Compact form factor : ca130 x 58 x 20 mm
Kraken price for 120/160/200A cont : 222 / 245 / 335 USD

Mobile APP programming and parameter setting APP programmable, real time data being monitored: data recording (current, voltage, rmp, temp etc…), needs optionnal part, the Flycolor WiFi Trans (25usd).

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Hello bbe

I can do that, but doubt that the HM mast and yours share the same profile

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Thanks Toto!

Maybe not perfect fit, but much better than Armstrong profile which bends inwards in the front. In any case, now the people with Gong HM masts have a non-cable guide option. :grinning:

During transportation, my propeller blades often broke, so I decided to make a cover. If anyone else is interested, I can post the model.


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If only there was a design where they could fold out of the way :joy::joy::joy::joy::joy:

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In a twin-motor boogie, I can only use non-foldable propellers. Until I develop a lock that prevents folding.

Is there an issue with folding props on the boogie? I wouldn’t think so?

One might open before the other and turn the boogie.

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I think folding propellers are not needed on the Tow Boogie. Shock load on the blades every time you press the gas - for what? Foil Drive Assistant is a completely different matter.

I used a 1/8" diameter aluminum Cotter pin in the pod (two holes shown). Hammered the loop of the cotter pin flat, then trimmed the excess. Then, I used a pair of M2 pan head machine screws in the holes in the clip itself, leaving about 5-10mm of threads exposed. That way, I can ‘snap’ the head into the strap, then pull the clip back until it engages the cotter pin. I would recommend an M2 Socket head cap screw, I just used what I had lying around.

Did you intend to reply to me with this?

I am definitely interested!

Is the box the same for the FDA and FDA+

Hi all, new to this forum but i have been taking stuff apart all my life. Sometimes i put it back together :wink:
Started a foil drive project and got the cheapest 6374 motor from Amazon.
Started to take it apart, and unfortionately the wires where glued with epoxy.
So be careful when removing the stator so you dont have to make a complete rewind…


You can see approx 10mm of one winding still glued to the stator housing. Ripped out :frowning:

//Magnus

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Why remove the cover completely? To solder the phase wires, it is enough to move it a few millimeters.