I think folding propellers are not needed on the Tow Boogie. Shock load on the blades every time you press the gas - for what? Foil Drive Assistant is a completely different matter.
I used a 1/8" diameter aluminum Cotter pin in the pod (two holes shown). Hammered the loop of the cotter pin flat, then trimmed the excess. Then, I used a pair of M2 pan head machine screws in the holes in the clip itself, leaving about 5-10mm of threads exposed. That way, I can ‘snap’ the head into the strap, then pull the clip back until it engages the cotter pin. I would recommend an M2 Socket head cap screw, I just used what I had lying around.
Did you intend to reply to me with this?
I am definitely interested!
Is the box the same for the FDA and FDA+
Hi all, new to this forum but i have been taking stuff apart all my life. Sometimes i put it back together
Started a foil drive project and got the cheapest 6374 motor from Amazon.
Started to take it apart, and unfortionately the wires where glued with epoxy.
So be careful when removing the stator so you dont have to make a complete rewind…
You can see approx 10mm of one winding still glued to the stator housing. Ripped out
//Magnus
Why remove the cover completely? To solder the phase wires, it is enough to move it a few millimeters.
My experience is that if you solder outside, the cables have a lot of movement at that point where they are soldered and can end up breaking.
If you weld inside it does not suffer fatigu
I was going for the complete encapsulation of stator in epoxy. (And solder on longer leads)
Sharing info that could be good to know for other diyers
Also have a cogged design of folding prop that could be fun to share:
Dont think its needed, but why not
I always solder on the outside, nothing has broken yet.
Is there an advantage for a folding propeller, when motor placed at the top part of the mast and is essentially out of the water when not in use ?
Similar question about duct. Duct gives safety and adds drag when in use, but does not add drag when not in use, considering the motor mounted at the top of the mast, right?
My logic for what it’s worth.
As the duct and/or non folding prop exit the water there is a more dramatic reduction in drag compared to a rig with no duct and/or the prop has already folded.
The inverse of course is true when the prop and/or duct enter the water
I think the goal is to make those transitions as “smooth” as possible to not disrupt the riders balance.
quick feedback on 8S3P & 12S2P - P42 with the Maytech 100A ESC. In a nutshell, it’s CRAP. The ESC saturates super quickly while reaching very quickly the 70°C temp which makes it saturate even more. In other terms, avoid this ESC. It’s money loss for what we want to do.
I’m 72kg with a 35L board and a 186mm tip to tip folding prop.
Hi, Please deposit .stl files. I can’t get .step files to read. Thank you.
A little video of my foil drive assist DIY kit : MOSES kitefoil17L board, 63100, lipo 6S 20A, ESC Flycolor 150A, foil Gong XXLT (1900 cm²)
(weight : 70kg)
Just scroll up. I already postet the thingiverse link.
Super
I didn’t see files in the folders
so okay
Thanks very much