I am sure there is better solutions. I am just sharing what works for me.
I can E-foil with this setup on my 56L at 190lbs with an Armstrong 1125 foil without the connections or wires getting hot.
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@500V… That’s 17.5KW. Look at the cable specification. The M28 can run cables up to 8mm2 which is 8AWG. It would probably be overkill for a foil assist.
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The 500v is just regarding the amount of isolation between wires, we don’t care about it, care only about the current.
Actually thinking again about the allowed current thorught the connector.
This specific application is foil-assist - the connector is free in the wind/water by himself without anything around him. The connector current specification is regarding temperature rise and probably in more confined conditions.
So @Jesserosco you are right - as long as there is no temperature rise, the resistance is kept low. Because the leads themselves are thick anyway and so the resistance is fine.
Seems like Male M28 is 50A , Female 35A.
on Ali $35 pair, on CnLinko website $150.
which motor and esc are you using? Also I bought the plastic cable glands and think that is where my leak is coming from. Do you think the metal ones are better?
I have the Maytech 100a and cheap 6384 150kv motor.
I have a metal one on my foil assist, but I also run 2 plastic glands on my tow boogie with no issue. Did you install the gland with any sealant around the threads? I seal the gland with 3m 5200 fast cure when I install it.
Detachable motor cable connector:
In conclusion, MR60 is good and not getting hot for @Jesserosco, but with spraying corrosionX (or maybe no need because it is gold plated).
So lets stop here? Otherwise here are a few more options from this topic:
- Placing 3 glands with bullets on the box like here
- Connecting cables by XT150 placed inside - Cable Gland Sleeve
- Also 3d printed solutions - from @sat_be, @kaya_973 and @Gliderpilot
@Jesserosco Experience with the on the body assist:
It’s pretty awesome!! I’ve only used a few times, because of tow boogie, but I used it last weekend and once I figured out how to catch a wave properly using it, it was super fun!! My waist belt setup works really good. I use a cheap padded waist belt with a couple rubber straps. The wire I use is a brand here called ancor and it’s a 12/3 awg. I use @hangloose’s connector that I had to modify for a 6mm bullet connector because the ones he uses aren’t available here in the US. Here is a couple links to what I use so you have an idea.
Titan Industrial Straps – Strong… 'https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W62H258?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MOLLE Padded Patrol Belt with… 'https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJF412B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And these are the connectors that @hangloose designed.
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There is a 3x3mm2 FLAT wire from ANCOR at nearly half price of the round section
'https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-131310-Marine-Electrical-Duplex/dp/B000NV2AVS/
It could be fitted in a small airfoil section parallel to the mast trailing edge as the Manta Takeoff does.
Here is a pic of the current setup. The ancor flat wire is nice, but I find the round more flexible for my setup.
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With this cable output direction you intend to surf only one side?
The other cable is a leash?
What about using one cable for electric and for the leash?
Even if leash is separate, it mast be shorter than the electric cable. Isn’t there a safety issue, wouldn’t you want a longer leash?
To build round shape (and maybe flexible) battery ?
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Yes, when I prone foil I don’t switch stance, but I could run the cable straight down if I wanted to. I use one of the straps to hold the cable into that position out the side. The second cable is the leash, no stretch and it is shorter than the motor wire to prevent undue stress on the faux drive cable and electronics in case of a wipe out. I’d be open to ideas on integrating motor cable and leash, but this seems the safest to me. I have been thinking through a flexible battery pack, because I think it’s a great idea, but this works and I don’t feel the stiffness of the box on my back the way it rides on the waist belt.
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Do you feel safe with that short leash?
Yes I do. I took quite a few crashes my first go with it and didn’t have any issues. I think for bigger waves I would want the motor wires to release and use a regular leash. That’s what I initially did with an MT60 connector and it worked good, but I love the @hangloose connector. I think his connector would work great as a quick release because the connection is nice and tight without screwing the nut on. I would probably just remove the nut or figure out a modification.
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Great idea with the auto release!
I would use my new plug for the auto release. However, in a round shape.
With the new plug you don’t need a flat gasket because the gold plugs seal all around.
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That is an awesome idea!
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Here is my setup, I’m on a backpack
For me, this subject is the last I struggled with on my build when big wipeouts occur. I had to design several iterations before the good one, until when ???
I tried 3 options :
-1) Only elec cable with solid attach with a thin rope on leash plug and belt . Broke the cable several times because the shear forces on the rope attached to the cable is too high during a fall
-2) Elec cable with 2 x 15cm bungees on each end. One board side and one belt side. After the max elongation of the bungees, it’s like a solid rope and I sadly snapped a leash plug.
-3) Last idea was to combine a real leash because it’s designed for this purpose and the cable, heavier but more nimble. It’s a bit hard to take in account the max elongation of the leash to leave spare cable length on each side.
My leash is normally attached to the board + my belt, my cable is taken with the leash inside a sheath attached on the elec cable only with cable ties. It allows the extension of the leash inside the sheath.
And I added the first solution to secure the cable on both ends also.
When I fall, the leash first do it’s job and reduce the force on the cable if it tensions. And the cable is solid secured on both sides. It’s good for the moment
I’ll study the configuration with a waterproofed plug which disconnects when a fall happens. Interesting, thanks.
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