Just tried an M4 cap head screw in the pin hole of the Grunt Versa strap which I mounted in my strap pod after grinding the buckle end. Screwing cap heads in looks like a great solution, shame I hadn’t thought of it because these screws are easy to get hold of and would likely screw in and hold (using 4 x M4 x 30mm cap head screws for 6384 motor mount which I don’t have yet). M4 rod didn’t fit in pin holes, so reamed out to 4mm and have ordered SS 4mm dowel pins for hinge 40mm (which I’ll grind to pod angle) and strap pins 30mm & 20mm. I’ll need to glue these pins in with epoxy. My Versa strap holes are 5mm and the cap head is ~ 6mm. Have yet to put it all together and find if it works however!
I don’t ride with 3D printed motor pods. Mine are all cnc’d. Also not riding gong masts. Which mast are you using?
here is the strap pod for Gong HM Mast (the 85cm one) without cable guide
Gong HM 85 cm Mast strap pod for 63mm outrunner by toto45 - Thingiverse
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Hi rttn,
When you say 25 minutes session, do you mean efoiling all this time or just for motorized lift and then pumping ? For information I am thinking to build a low cost efoil based on 6384 to ride ~1hour at 20-25 km/h. So it would mean I need 2 of your 8s3p batteries in parralele. Also I checked in your previous post, and you used to have a 150A Fly color. Do you think I could take the cheaper 80A flycolor or the 150A (I think they only sell 80/120 or 160 A now). Thank you for your help.
25 minutes are distributed as follows: approximately 60 percent in efoil mode, the rest of the time pumping.
My old Flycolor 150A is only rated for 6S and I don’t think it’s a good choice right now. I wouldn’t go for the cheaper controller options unless you want to deal with overheating all the time.
I had this in standby for a while but plan to progress on it (and yes it’s a lot of cells !)
It’s 45mm high so I can easily host 2x21700 cells blocks and still plenty of space for ESC.
any good 3D designer that can move this forward for the community? The overall cost of this to be CNC is around 600 euros on big milling platforms… so very reasonable 
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I’d change the design to make it a plastic cover, could be resin or sls 3d-printed quite reasonably if there are metal standoff rings taking the load from mast to board.
Could be tried with stacks of m6 large diameter washers😀
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yes, exactly. I also got the option and it’s half the price if you go for P12 Nylon. That’s why you have big channels that will use metal standoff to take the load as you’re pointing it. Walls are 10mm except the bottom and top one.
I just need to find out how to make rubber gaskets and add the few screws holes / tabs here and there
Nice 9S4P battery. If you look at the VORTEX pictures shown by @brycej, if aluminium, walls could be thinner around 5-6mm thick + 3mm for top and bottom
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@okp Did somebody estimated the consequences and drag of these 4.5cm?
Per my understanding:
This is a foil-assist after all… It will be used for a lot of get ups on foil. Board have to plane easily, otherwise more battery usage and maybe even not get to enough speed.
Thanks for the feedback on this esc. Do you have an external heat sink with this installation or is it just inside the box?
too hard to estimate. did somebody estimated the consequences of having you lying on the boards with some of your legs in the water while pressing the throttle.
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This just made me laugh a lot!
This isn’t really an issue for getting up. It’s more an issue on a touchdown with higher speed. Below board units act like a unexpected brake.
But for weight distribution and pumping the board they will be the best option as they sit in the COG area.
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The only thing I did was resolder the wires so that the esc would fit better in the box and combine it with the bec using heat shrink.
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That really is great news. Thanks.
You could remove those extrusion for the bolts and the centered battery pack. Instead you make an extrusion for the mast in the center. So the box would be mounted onto the mast right below the board.
The benefit would be that you can 3D print it due to reduced mechanical stress on the box. Second you don’t add length to your mast.
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this is super smart mate !!! I went for this design to allow a slider for different mast but your view is definitely better. How do I make it waterproof?
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I am not completely sure about waterproofing it. But maybe it would be sufficient to brush the print with epoxy? Or laminate some glass fiber / carbon.
This isn’t an issue. In fact most foilers would welcome the extra length without reducing the actual mast length.