Nice! I actually decided to buy another vesc and leave my old one on the skateboard. This flipsky unit comes with a heat sink: FLIPSKY VESC Electric Speed Controller for Skateboard FSESC6.7 70A Base on VESC6.6 with Aluminum Anodized Heat Sink https://a.co/d/44RoU7a
and, looking at foil drive’s photos, it looks like they’re using a similar configuration.
Should be coming in the mail in a couple of days. Will be out on the water if all goes well
Finally got my setup built and have been out for several tests. I’m running:
The goal was to be able to get up on foil without assistance in flat water. Unfortunately, even with this large board and wing, I’m staying just in the water. At max throttle, I can get it very close with a few pumps, but it feels like I need some more speed.
I’ve got the folding propeller printed out of PETG that was supplied here by @nekitesurfing and @s9tim .
Wondering if there might be a better 3D printable prop to get more top-end out of the roughly 3600 RPM I can get.
If all else fails, I’m considering rewiring the battery to 12S2P but don’t want to buy a new balance charger.
My setup is similar and I’m on 6S3P.
I’d say the biggest factor is your board that is holding you back. Not sure what model SS board you are using but 140 litre is a lot of surface area. Also get the foil as far forward in the tracks.
I just dropped from 29” wide to 24” on my Sup. The Difference is night and day in ease of efoil get up and go. I’m running an EML fold prop. I’ve tried a few DIY Props and superlefax’s FOLD is the best so far. I can stationary start with a GoFoil GL180 (1288cm2). I’m around 85kg wet.
Thanks for the reply. I tried first on my wing board, a cabrinha macro 5’4” ~100L but wasn’t getting anywhere. The nose of the board was coming way out of the water. There was no way to get the board to level out under power. I had the mast mounted in towards the back of the track though. Not sure what I was thinking there lol
I’ll give the new prop a print and move the mast forward. Should be back tomorrow with an update
Thanks again!
Agree. My board is 21" , only 75 L and with 6S it starts effortlessy.
Regarding balancing, I did the same with my battery ( to see how fast i can go) . Just create two pairs of balancing wires.
I think I’m out of ideas. Went out today with the new prop printed from enzymlefax and the mast all the way forward and…still couldn’t get up.
Today I used a slingshot outwit 6’6” 120L about 28” wide. I’m 85kg
Unsure what other things to try. The only thing I can think of is that my front wing is 1263 cm2. Maybe too small to provide enough lift at these speeds?
It’s hard to imagine anything being able to get out of the water moving this slow though
Apologies for the video facing directly into the sun lol
That’s a small front wing for what you’re trying to do. My friend has one that size and he needs to be going at a really good pace to get enough lift.
I have a Gong Curve MT, which is a 1150 cm2 wing. I weigh about 67kg. I need more speed than you had in the video to get up.
So weird. @Foil_A_Lot is able to make this work with a similar sized wing and running 6s, so like 1/4 less rpm?
This may be one of the greatest mysteries of all time
I could not get foiling on a sup, with 1900cm2 front wing on flat water and 6s.
You are not alone
10s works okay, but i found that it is way easier to take off if you manage to get the board planning relaly well and gather speed.
I split my batteries in 6s and 4s so incan use a small lipo balance charger
I’ll try and get some video of my setup in action on flat water in the next few weeks. I must add I always efoil with a paddle, most of the time I paddle and motor to start. The paddle helps with unweighting the board and getting some extra speed. My board is a 6’3 long downwind supfoil. Very efficient hull and lifts easy once moving.
I’d say next step for you could be try a larger front wing or try a base plate shim on the board to get more angle of attack from the foil.
Great, that would be helpful thanks. Was just thinking maybe this motor is too low kv after all.
It does launch from under my feet if I’m not careful with the throttle from a standstill
Sure some people get up with a 6384 but the weight difference to a 63100 is not that huge, right? and those fly most things - is it worth it to push the envelope with a smaller motor? You know, one cup of coffee less in the morning or going to the loo before foiling will probably save more weight 
Sure, but a 63100 is 4 times the price.
Buddy made me and a few friends diy Foil Drives. His first attempt was with a VESC and its settings weren’t quite right…was only getting about half of expected power. He switched to the 150a ESC (flycolor) and it immediately worked better, twice the power. I am not sure what the wrong setting was … but maybe checking your ESC/VESC might help? (and if you’ve already tried that, sorry for repeat)
Good thought. I actually started this project with a vesc but the high temp cutout kept triggering after about 10 seconds of full throttle. Switched to the Aerostar esc and didn’t notice much of a difference in power, although if you hold full throttle too long, the motor connectors will burn through the insulation
I’m new to the club and i’ve searched the forum a lot and read this post about 10 times!
What remotes are people using? I have bought a Maytech v2 but I hear that the waterproofing isnt great and they fail after a few uses. Is there anything better? Or do people use a Maytech with a plastic bag?
Many thanks
I’m using maytech remotes. I gave the circuit board a good coating of epoxy resin. I just pulled off what was there and poured in about 30ml of resin. So far so good. Lasted one year with weekly use. The out of the box waterproofing did not give me enough confidence to last. Pic below.
Thanks for the reply and photos. So from the looks of it you didnt touch the screen and only poured epoxy onto the top of the circuit board? Did you take any special effort to ensure the epoxy coated the back of the circuit board?
I simply Poured in slow cure and let air bubbles come out from behind circuit board. I know this means I can never repair or replace any parts on the remote but if it breaks I’ll just get a new remote. You have to watch the resin near the on/off switch that’s about it. I used some surf wax near the trigger switches to stop the resin flowing over the edges where they are lower.
I left the screen alone, it look ok from factory on the current remote I just bought. LCD seems to be encased in some form of resin.
My remote floats now which is a bonus!
